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Well the deed has been done said goodbye to my 2011 Rx450h Se-I and then hello to my new 2017 RX450h Luxury First Impressions of it are very good apart from I preferred the mirrors of the old one.

There are a couple of reasons for essentially what is a refusal to perform/complete a hybrid heath check. There is an existing error code relating to the hybrid system. This will be cleared but Toyota/Lexus insist that the vehicle is driven for 400-600 miles (not sure the exact distance) to make sure the fault no longer exists. If the 12v aux battery goes flat/is disconnected then all error codes are wiped, or if codes were purposely cleared. Again 400-600 miles needs to be driven to make sure no faults exist and a code wasn't cleared on purpose to try and get warranty coverage. The reason for the distance is that certain faults only show up intermittently or after a certain conditions e.g. vehicle speed, hard acceleration etc. etc. The distance stipulated means most, if not all conditions, would have been encountered and so Toyota has confidence that the system is working fine. They are relying on the hybrid system itself to detect faults, ones that cannot be tested for in a workshop and within the timeframe allocated to conduct the HHC.

Thanks, it does look good and first registration was March 2017 so still the lower tax amount of £115 a year. Was also surprised that there was no difference at all for my insurance even though this is around 3 times the value.

They are correct with respect to the hybrid battery. Just a few days ago another member on here had the check done at Lexus and they told him the same thing. I can't remember the exact reason for this, although I'm sure someone else will be along shortly who can explain it in more detail. I think it's to do with the logging systems that may have codes listed, not because something really is faulty but just because the system doesn't have enough recent data to work on, which is why they need you to drive it for a few hundred miles. I'm really not sure about the other things though. Yes, they may only be small things that are easily dealt with - but they may turn into a nightmare. I suppose it boils down to how urgently you need or want a car. It may take a bit of time and it may mean you have to travel a bit, but I'm sure that sooner or later a better car will turn up without the problems that this one seems to have.

after a stressful couple of weeks, the car is now home and runs like a dream!!!

No, the washer circuit doesn't use a relay, it is directly powered. You can pull the Washer fuse to prove it is an electrical faulty - the single fuse protects both front and rear washers. It's a weird fault but the wiring for the rear washer is quite simple so it is either a fault with the wiper control stalk or a wiring issue. The design of the circuit means there is a 12v feed on the pump at all times when the ignition is on so it is possible that the return could have a high resistance path to the vehicle ground which would give you low speed running of the pump - e.g. the connector is damp/wiring insulation damaged etc.

Sorry to read that Anita. Herbie has given his view which accords with mine, but Colin Barber (a Moderator) will probably be along shortly to give you a definitive answer.

Hi guys, I have just recently had this problem and managed to sort it. It started with a rusted broken adjuster linked to the sensor which is located on the offside rear suspension. I replaced this part from an eBay seller for £5 including delivery!. However this didn’t cure the problem entirely and after searching eBay and Amazon etc I sourced a new sensor for £25 and ‘bingo’ all is now sorted for a total £30. Result!.

In the end guys I bought a C63 507 saloon. Only 1/1 in the country in this colour combination. The owner bought it brand new as a birthday present to himself! Just couldn’t say no... I know it’s a Lexus forum but here are some pics nonetheless

That’ll be the ‘one Touch’ feature! Note it will stop working and need resetting if you do a Battery removal Also note that the roof can still be operated for upto 45 seconds after IGN off provided you do not open any doors! You can also open/close it via the remote key fob!

This is happening because the battery is low, quite possibly on its way out. A starter motor will draw over 300A to crank the engine but in your case it can't supply that. There's enough power in the battery to pull in the starter solenoid contacts, which then passes power to the starter motor, but once the motor tries to draw a heavy current the battery voltage drops very low - so low that it can't hold the solenoid contacts in. When the solenoid drops, battery voltage climbs back up and the whole process carries on in a loop. The clicking you can hear is the solenoid contacts keep making and breaking, more commonly known as solenoid chatter. So, it's either the battery itself at fault or the alternator is not charging it. The chart below wil help to diagnose it. Standing voltage should be as per the chart but when the alternator starts then the voltage should climb to about 14.5V. If it doesn't then it's the alternator.

I went to my dealer to switch from my NX (which we don't really need any more since my wife got a UX) to an IS, and came away with an ES! This is the first time really I have come away with a car other than the one I intended to buy! Mine is the F-Sport with Tech Pack and Protection Pack. To share some immediate first impressions about this specific car, which are almost entirely positive: - it is *extraordinarily* quiet, especially up to around 50-60mph; - it is a much smoother ride than the 2017 NX F-Sport I had, and also (though the difference isn't as marked) versus my wife's 2020 UX; - the lack of auto-boot lid is rendered close to irrelevant by the fact the boot lid opens fully on its springs anyway; - it is even more evident that any reviewer telling you about a "growl" hasn't actually driven the car (this simply does not exist even under fairly hard acceleration); - I still haven't worked out what to do with the lumbar support... And some impressions about 2020 vehicles in general versus 2017: - the infotainment is still in the "unnecessarily complex" category but it is more intuitive than it was and the graphics are much better; - the adaptive cruise is markedly improved, now operating from 18mph and more readily; - most notably of all, the transition between EV and engine, which was always smooth, is now undetectable other than by looking at the screen; - Lexus Link telling you how you performed at that last roundabout is slightly freaky... As with anything, whether an ES is a good buy will depend somewhat on personal circumstances. It was clear that the dealership wanted me to go that way (the ES F-Sport came in cheaper than the IS F-Sport) and that's fine. If you are looking for a true driver's car, the ES was never designed for that (although it's not bad, tbc!) but if you are in the market for a saloon which combines coupe looks with a bit of luxury, I'd say it's hard to beat.

Not sure how easy it is to get to the pumps, normally the reservoir is in the wing so it is either front wheel off and remove the wheel arch lining to get to it, or worse the front bumper has to come off. Have a look in the engine bay to see if you can see them. I'd start with the switch, you should be able to narrow down where the fault lies from there. If you disconnect the wiring connectors from the stalk then measure the resistance between pin 5 of connector A and pin 2 of connector B. It should be infinite and then approx. 0 ohms when you move the switch to wash. If you have a reading other than infinity when the switch isn't being moved to wash then that may be where the low power is being supplied to the motor and the switch is faulty. If that is ok then measure the resistance across those two pins but on the plugs rather than the switch - you are then measuring the resistance between one side of the pump and the vehicle ground - if you have anything other than infinity then you have a resistance path in the wiring somewhere or at the pump connector. I cannot see it being the pump itself as that probably has plastic body and mounted on the plastic reservoir and therefore has no direct connection to ground to complete the circuit itself. Connector A Connector B

This what I get:

One of the most common reasons for this on the 430 is an O2 sensor but as Herbie says a code reader should put you right.

VSC can illuminate for a whole host of reasons and you can't just stab in the dark as to what it may be. As a starting point you need to read, or have read, the OBD2 codes. Even when you know what codes are present, that again is just another starting point for investigation, not an absolute guarantee that a given sensor is playing up and all your problems will be solved just by replacing it. Two things that regularly do crop up though is to (a) check that the fuel filler cap is clean, tight and properly seals when you put it back on, and (b) make sure the battery is good - if it's low then charge it up overnight or if it's not holding charge, replace it. Both of those things have been known to cause VSC and TC lights. Other than that, start with the codes.

Can't be syphonic as the height of the nozzle is way above the height of the tank. Water cannot climb uphill on its own so it has to be an electrical problem running the pump (front wash and rear wash have separate pumps if I remember correctly) but not at 'proper' speed. Auto electrics are like the black arts. I remember working on a skip truck* whose very perplexed driver brought it into the garage and said, "Watch this." Every time he pressed the footbrake the windscreen wipers did one full sweep! We traced it back to a partial short circuit where the wipers were getting a backfeed from the brake pedal switch. *I was an apprentice electrician at the time, in a factory. I don't know why they did it but the 'powers that be' decided it would be good for the apprentice electricians to get a bit of experience in the factory garage, working with the auto electrician for a month. Have to say I did enjoy it though 🙂

That's proper weird! Gonna cost a fortune in screenwash. Does it only do it when you are above a certain speed? What starts it off? I would try and disconnect ( electrically, either fuse or pull plug on pump if you can get to it) the rear wash to check if it is the pump or some spooky syphonic action at speed!

It sounds like mine has had the water pump done in the past so that is good news! Just ordered a radiator to do that and I'll feel a lot better about avoiding potential future issues! Thanks, appreciate it! I may sound a bit biased but old BMW's are just great, they just feel built and designed around driving for enjoyment. The 2002 is a real dream car of mine and ive gone a bit daft on the specification/ modifications as I've built it but it's a great escape when you go out for a drive in it and totally worth it! Thanks, yours looks a great example! I'm a bit out of love with modern vag/ BMW cars so the ISF is a much welcome change! Thanks and small world, thanks for reaching out! The showroom I got the car from sold it to Karl funnily enough and they tend to stock really nice examples. They also put me in touch with Karl, seems a great fella and I hope to keep the same regime going! I'm very OCD with oil temps as it is, it's not seen over 2k revs in my ownership until it's on 3 bars!

Possibly syphonic action?

I had an old radiator from a ls430 kicking around so I thought I would take it apart to see what the hoo ha is with the ATF pipe inside and .. well here are the photos make of it what you will 🙂

This is the one I fitted some years ago but unfortunately I don't have any links to it but it was a sturdy item.

You don't say which model you're looking at, or how old. Some of the things you list may not be minor - you can't live with bit of dampness on an AC system - it has to be completely gas tight or it will empty quickly (unless you want to dispense with AC altogether - but hey - this is a Lexus GS). Oil leaks might not look much but can cost a fortune to fix. If you went to a Lexus dealer they would want to replace the seizing brakes lock stock and barrel. The hybrid battery might recover or be recoverable - but it might not. I would walk away - find a car with a full Lexus service history including a (passed) hybrid health check.

I've never used 'clickmechanic' so can't say anything about that but the rest of that sentence gives me cause for concern. It's not yet been proved that the alternator is the problem so even if a garage did change it, it may not cure the fault. It needs to be properly diagnosed in a logical and methodical way and preferably by a proper auto electrician rather than a mechanical garage or, God forbid, somewhere like Halfords. I don't know whereabouts you are in Hampshire but a cursory googling shows a 5-star rating for https://www.amtecautoelectrics.co.uk/ and also 5-star rating for http://petersfieldautoelectrical.co.uk/ Above all, remember that you've got rights under the Sale of Goods Act and that the garage you bought it from should be doing all this for you.

Could be a slipping belt - look for glazing on the belt and/or squealing when a high electrical load is on. Could be loose and/or dirty connections in the charging circuit. Was the engine just idling when you took the voltage readings or did you rev it - alternator output can vary with spin speed so see what the voltage is when the engine is at about 2 or 3000rpm. There are a few good videos on Youtube on how to go about testing the alternator on the car, so have a look here for some good suggestions. Finally, but perhaps most importantly, unless you bought it privately then you really shouldn't be doing any of this anyway. You've only had it a few days so you should take it back to the trader/garage/dealer you bought it from and get them to put it right at their expense under warranty.

Actually, no I did not consider the NX. I prefer the size of the RX for all my camping equipment... and the engine in the RX to enjoy when wanted. I used to average around 29mpg in my 2011 RX450h but did not hang around in it .. got around 38mpg on longer journeys and once got 47mpg on a 17 mile run into work drafting a lorry up the motorway. So far since last night have averaged 33mpg in this 2017 so pleased with that.

yeah thats why the decision was made to pull it out of Lexus, I wasnt confident that they had fully diagnosed the issue, it felt like they were just gonna keep changing parts till they found the issue, it was getting close to £2k in labour at Lexus, so this route was a bit of a no brainer! yeah standard Lexus rad

Can you see where it’s leaking from? Are you sure it’s completely random or is there some pattern to it, like just after you’ve used the washer, or when going up or down a hill?

Gearbox, fluids, rad assy, came in just over, came in around £2.2k (mates rates on labour)

I've just come back from Scotland to Gloucester in mine. On Tuesday in all the bad weather I travelled the 205 miles from Masham in Yorkshire. Drove at 70mph on cruise most of the way fully laden. Filled up in Masham and then in Gloucester. My average mpg was 38.07mpg. Very impressed so with your car being similar age you can look forward to great economy

Have you considered an all weather tyre, The tyre reviews website quote a Nankang Cross Sport tyre . Apparently they sell this tyre in the US and Canada with a guaranteed 50000 miles warranty ...........see the link,,,,,,,,, //www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&Cookie=aff_rd_uk_awin&details=Ordern&typ=R-384550 It reads really well.................Hope you enjoy the car Best wishes

T`was only yesterday, young man!

Worms, can, opened! This guy has reviewed more than 50 or 60 dashcams and this is the one he settled on for using in his own car, which speaks volumes to me. This video is now two years old so no doubt the cameras have been superceded by newer models but at least it should give you confidence in the company and whatever models they are selling now.

Spiffing, as Piers said. At 3 years old it looks brand new !

Rider

Ride on 19 inch wheels should be fine. Tyres are probably the issue. My 2015 RX450h was great on Michelin Cross Climates on the standard 19 inch wheels.

There you go, I found my one.

I am sure the AA would have checked this in your case but the click click can also be down to a poor earth. Learnt this with my first proper car when I knew nothing about cars. Car would not always start just giving clicks sometimes, so got garage to check and the posts and terminal connectors were cleaned and reattached. Problem solved which cost me half a crown - well it was a long time ago!

Yes, for the price of a belt you may as well and then you know it's right.

Have decided to plump for the Yokohama BluEarth Winter V905 tyre. They get reasonable reviews and are attractively priced. But before I do I will relook the Nokian tyre comments on Tyre Review site. Many thanks for all your inputs

I wonder if the area affected had been resprayed and the surface wasn't well prepared or the paint wasn't very well applied. If it was original factory paintwork you would expect to see a lot more complaints from other VW owners. Thanks for the suggestion, though. I'll try a small amount first just to be cautious.

I had a problem with water ingress into the boot of our Honda Jazz. It was a known problem with water coming through the roof seam when the adhesive had dried out over time. I bought some Captain Tolleys creeping crack cure and after a few applications it solved the problem. If you have a few suspect areas it might be worth trying it.

Womble72 ?

Another place to look would be the boot. The nav ecu and the camera ecu are in the boot as is the bulb failure module. But there is no common connection for all the things that are failing. Each if the three modules have indicator, reverse and camera lines.

I can't think of any single module that is common to all of the issues you mention. It's more likely a wiring issue. The dashboard would be a good area to look as the wiring for all of those would at some point be in the dashboard area. Most of the wires run to the tailgate and I'd have suspected pinched/broken wires at the tailgate, but the climate control eliminates that and pushes the fault more to the dashboard area. The camera goes to the multimedia module, as does the climate control wiring. The indicator wiring goes to the hazard switch in the centre console, the reversing switch wiring also goes to the multimedia module to switch the screen to the camera signal. So my first thought would be to look in the dash area around and behind the screen to check for damaged wiring. It's amazing where little rodents can get and chew wires. 😉

Could it be the phone adaptor that's at fault?