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I cannot criticise High Peak Autos. The invoices show that they spent a lot of money putting things right and I don't think that they made a profit on the sale. (I hope they made a profit on my part exchange). When starting the car I did not notice the absence of the MIL, and I suspect that many other potential buyers would not notice it. I always buy older cars and in my experience it is rare to get one without any issues. I still feel that I have come away with a good car and I would buy again from this dealer.

mainly those who can

You got to remember, the car is over 20 years old, so will have some corrosion, but having said that, I wouldn't buy any car from that seller

I think that damage from E10 is way exaggerated. I used to run E85 without any issues. The only issue I see is that E10 is objectively inferior fuel compared to 100% petrol or E5, yet it costs the same or even more than 95 Octane E5 it replaced. Simply said it is scam - you get less fuel, thus worse MPG and still pay the same or more.

I used run 225/245 on mk3 F-sport wheels... it definitely improves handling as 255 is silly for car like IS250, especially considering that fronts are 225 and just induces "fake-safe" understeer balance. If anything I would go even further for 225/235 or 235/245 to bring that balance back to more neutral. In short - it makes car handle better and more like RWD should, but probably still too much grip in rear, too little in the front.

On the SC430 there are 70+ engine fault conditions and 15+ transmission fault conditions that trigger the EML/MIL/CEL to come on. Some more serious than others. Anything major would result in the ECU shutting down the engine and not allowing it to restart. The next level down in severity would mean 'limp mode' where you would have restricted power just to get home. Lowest severity is where the driver may not notice any performance difference but could result in more fuel being used/high emissions etc. Certainly a common cause is a failed oxygen sensor as these have a finite life and typically start to fail at 60k to 100k miles, but it is very important to get the error code(s) to help narrow down where the problem is. All conditions will result in a MOT failure as checking the light first comes on with ignition and then goes out when the engine is start is part of the test.

Fair enough

Spoken like a seasoned professional Richard! I believe that invariably the engine management light is not indicating a terminal problem although I for one would want to address the issue promptly. Once you know the reason for it being on you will be able to consider what remedial action is required and how soon it needs addressing. Good luck Anthony

As far as I'm concerned Citroen never had a plot to lose when it comes to looks and aesthetics and have always made ugly things, but this one really has fallen out of the tallest ugly tree in the world and hasn't just hit every branch on the way down but has been actively thrashed by them!

Decided to do the filters on my 112,000 mile 400H. The car has a good service history with brake and diff fluids replaced etc over time so I did not expect this. The pollen filter was the easiest I have ever changed, but looks like it has never been out since new!

Mine had, fortunately, already been converted before purchase using a USA sourced conversion kit from Strutmasters. I can’t compare air to springs obviously but the ride is fine to me and zero problems. Cost of the kit, I think, was less than one replacement air strut from Lexus plus a few hours labour.

I will prob just wait until the next meet glad to see its single clutch for long term reliability! maybe I will settle with the 2.0 version in the future as like I'm not ready for a SUV & maybe never will be 😆 but would take a ES over one any day.

I see that Kwik Fit are now stocking the Bridgestone Alenza 001 Run Flat tyres for the 2022 NX, which is progress; the bad news is that they're currently £303 each. I'm thinking that the Hankook Ventus Evo3 Self-Sealing tyres are looking a better bet at £206 each. The only problem with the seal-sealing tyres that I can think of is how I'd know if one had a puncture and so needed attention.

just keep an eye on the timing belt. Lexus were forced to change the interval from 100k to 60k because of premature wear (caused by tensioner/pulleys failing and going out of alignment).

On my NX, I find an In/out kick works better than a sideways kick. And, yes, do step straight back for it to work (not to one side or it thinks there is an obstacle it might hit and won't open).

17p/litre difference today at my local village garage in Scotland (163.9/180.9). Went for the E10 and will look around for better deal next time I have to fill up.

Works every time for me too. Standing too close to the boot will prevent it from opening.

Don't forget all these prices should be 10% less if you are a Gold Member on LOC.

Exchanging my 2020 UX Premium Plus with Sun roof for an equivalent 2023 model this afternoon. I will update you on my initial impressions shortly.

Check on the ClubLexus US based forum for plenty of details on changing the suspension from air to coilovers. In the USA only the top 2 specs (out of 5) of the LS430 had the air suspension. The air suspension gives you both comfort and handling by being dynamically adjusted for level, spring rate, and damping, as well as improving fuel economy on motorway drives as it lowers the car to give lower drag. Going to coilovers you will lose out as they are NOT self-levelling, will not lower at speed, and they are inevitably a compromise w.r.t. comfort and handling as you cannot design a coil over be both comfortable and handle well. The specific coil overs used and their setup will determine the comfort and handling characteristics of the car. Plenty of people are happy with coil overs but personally I would stick with air.

Lexus service or independent?

yeah, i bought my tezza for i think $3000 6 years ago at 224,000kms. i just looked on trademe and they sell, even the autos, even the 1gfe engine, even with high mileage, for like $7k now. i suppose they are almost a classic car now. plus they have that beautiful 90's JDM style. i hate modern cars. GREAT CAR. if i didnt have a daily hourly commute i would have the manual version, preferably the 3sge. but since i am stuck in traffic half my life i wouldnt trade this car for anything.

i have a 1999 toyota altezza. (lexus is200) it has just gone 330,000kms tbh i have not even changed the engine oil or filter for the last 5 years or apporx 100,000kms... it had an oil leak from the rocker cover seal but mostly the spark plug seals. so i was just topping it up occasionally and never drained it or changed the filter. until now. i finally removed th rocker cover and cleaned everything up. such an oily mess. replaced all the seals and now no more oil leak. yay. also new engine oil, oil filter, atf, and air filter. so, in the last 6 years of owning this car (i bought i at 224,000kms) i have replaced: 3 ignition coils 6 spark plugs 2 oil filters plenty of engine oil... atf twice front brake pads once rear brake pads twice plenty of tyres.. coolant (flushed the heater cores to get heater working again, it was a bit clogged) thermostat (*must have been slightly stuck open) repaired gear under dash that changed between fan modes fuel pump in petrol tank (had me stranded at the liquor store on a friday night, lol. got my brother to tow me home saturday morning). positive battery terminal (for some reason it was corroding alot while the starter motor was on its last legs starter motor (that was a bitch to do, working down on the road, in a pool of my own oil leak,lol. had to drop the tranny a bit to get at the top bolt with about 5 extensions on the bolt. replaced the battery once back when i bought it. replaced the rear suspensions spherical bearings once. (had to press hem out and then new ones in. replaced the windscreen myself because some jackass failed it on a chip i had had for years that i couldnt repair by injecting glue. (its hard to repair chips that are that old. hey block from debris stopping the resin penetrating all the way. air filter i think thats it. (apart from puting my stereo from my past 2 cars into this car. sub + amp + head unit. i didnt bother with the aftermarket speakers as the stock ones in this car seemed better to me tbh.) i bought a new timing belt, but after removing all the accessory belts and radiator etc to get at the crank bolt, i couldnt get the damn bolt undone without the force of leverage flipping the damn car upside down, lol. so i had to give up as i needed the car to get to work. the belt on it looked fine. i will attempt it again on my christmas leave since i already have the new belt anywya. i had to readjust the damn headlight beams to pass a wof. replaced a few headlight and brakelight bulbs etc yeah, im pretty sure that is all the work it has required. overall i am super happy with this reliable beast. it should go another 100,000k's no sweat. especially now half the problem parts have been replaced with new ones. i expect the alternator will need replacing eventually... its always the electrics that die first. part of the reason i will always own a petrol car rather than an electric one. im not sure why i listed everything like that, but maybe it helps someone to know the common things that might need replacing on these cars..? also if im honest, an outlet to brag of my novice mechanical experience, lol.

E.M.L.lights are not usually Red, so they do not indicate that immediate remedial action is necessary. Often indicative of a failed Oxygen Sensor.

Compared to many Traders Maurice, I feel that Matt is honest and respectable, but his knowledge is limited. In recent videos when putting fuel into cars he has failed to recognise that Europen and Japanese cars have fuel filler caps on opposite sides,nor did he know that the position of the filler cap is shown on the dashboard. Still, he is an open and refreshing reviewer who says it as it is.No B******t. I would be prepared to buy a car from him.

Sure, the figures you quote are the primary means of formally judging the dimensional differences that could lead one to choose any given car over another, at least from an armchair. What I find the figures don't necessarily express, however, are the differences in physical and optical impressions a driver - by which I mean me - might have in negotiating the sort of tight and winding route briefly described in my last post. For example, 2cm greater width in a 90° turn from one narrow alley into another even narrower one might not in itself greatly affect the timing of when exactly to aim and straighten the car, but the awareness of significantly greater length during the process of completing the manoeuvre with even a slight suspicion of having made a misjudgment can make one fairly nervous - and downright sweaty if for any reason one needs to abort the manoeuvre and reverse out. Or so I find even though I am aware that it is largely a question of familiarity with a car and confidence in one's own skills. In short, if in many circumstances I consider the electronic aids in the RC to be important, I am guessing I would find them well-nigh indispensable in the ES. Incidentally, while on the subject of width, the first ES I drove was fitted with the digital side-view monitors, and I must say that I generally liked them. On the other hand, even without knowing if and by how much they add to the ES' overall width, they certainly give the impression of doing so, thereby adding a further element of possible nervousness (not least because of the potential replacement cost).

My NX450H changed automatically.

I think that you can pay off the finance after the first payment is made.

Bumpers just cosmetic, but personally I would be very concerned with these advisories.

check this out. I found it by accident (excuse the pun) the workmanship is outstanding.

You will need to have a scan done to find out which fault code(s) are present. This will narrow things down and make diagnosis easier.

I can't say that I have heard any unusual noises. Are you not just hearing the statutory warning noise for EV's when travelling (forward and reverse) at low speed? That of course wouldn't account for the noise when stationary.

I have just discovered from the paperwork that the garage tried to fix the P1651 fault code by replacing the vacuum switching valve for the emissions control system, not the valve for the acoustic control induction system. I have looked at the valve for the emissions control and it looks new. It is not surprising that the P1651 code will not go away. I have ordered a new valve and gaskets.

Well sounds like it might drive well, but possibly not stop quite so well

it only takes 10 seconds to change manually. not a deal breaker🕛🕚🕙

Herbie is waxing lyircal lads ! Beautiful, he should do it more often, perhaps ?

Thanks for this Ed. To me this is one of the biggest benefits of the move to electric, the fact that it's prompted manufacturers to totally rethink how cars can be made. Many of the negatives surrounding EVs come from the fact that current cars involve little more than fitting a battery and electric motors to existing designs. With real innovation, like this, it will be interesting to see what other manufacturers can come with over the next 10-20 years.

I was a passenger for a test drive in the new Sportage. Perfectly pleasant, lots of tech but iffy build quality for the price and not at all practical compared with the competition if you need to carry passengers - it just isn’t wide enough across the back seats for three grandchildren aged under twelve! The biggest issue though was the price. It can’t be sensible for a £40k KIA Sportage to cost more than a £50k Volvo XC60 (which felt as though it was from several leagues above) but that was the case once discounts, trade in prices and PCP interest rates were considered. Unsurprisingly my Sister has her new XC60 on order…

Today I removed the cluster again and managed to access the LED's. I have attached a photo. The black sealant is covering the LED for the malfunction indicator lamp. Needless to say, the MIL is now working as it should. At least I don't have to start investigating the wiring. I may be the only person who is pleased to see the MIL lit up with the engine running. That is part 1 of the problem solved. Now, fault code P0430 with a louder than usual exhaust note will point me in the right direction.

The Faraday pouches tend to fail after a few months with no visible reason, which is why I always test mine every few days.

100% success with the step back technique,which basically means you kick and then take one step back.

ALAW, I've also looked at this, having looked at several articles and the car care nut & The Fuel Reviewer (YouTube) petrol cleaner/additives is not needed, instead, use premium fuel whenever you can with as little ethanol in as possible. My preferences are as follows... ETH means ethanol 1 Esso E10 6% eth, E5 0% 2 BP E10 5% eth, E5 0% 3 Shell E10 7.5% eth, E5 2.5% eth. 4 Gulf E10 2.5% eth, E5 0% eth Just use premium fuel as often as you can (every fill-up or maybe once in 3 fillups) MOT

Just fill up with V-Power?

As more people start asking about buying older IS 300h’s with higher mileages thought I’d post this here for those looking now and in the future. My IS 300h is 8 years old and done 122k miles and had it’s 8-year old MOT yesterday. It once again passed without fault – no advisories, nothing. I bought the car used from Lexus when it was just over two years old with 40K miles on it – I got a good deal at the time as the mileage was quite high for a two-year-old car. The trim level is Executive, which although it doesn’t have all the toys, the pre-face lift Executive trim was a reasonable package and gave me everything I needed. The car was bought for business use (as well as personal use) and so was going to have to earn its keep and certainly wouldn’t be babied. It has been looked after by the same Lexus dealer since new (I purchased it from the same dealer that sold the car new) and I have continued to have it serviced there since. I have simply left it to Lexus to follow their service schedules (every 10K miles), nothing more. I have also kept an Extended Warranty in place and always had the MoT done at Lexus too. I like to keep things simple with one port of call wherever possible. In the 6 years and 80K+ miles I have run it, other than the servicing and tyres (also fitted at the Lexus dealer as they were always the cheapest) the only additional items have been: - New screen wash sensor – about a year after I purchased the car I hit a lorry tyre at night that had been shed on the motorway causing quite a bit of damage – this was repaired faultlessly by Lexus (Jemca’s own body shop) but just after that I noticed the screen wash sensor failed – I’m not sure it was coincidence or to do with the accident (which damaged the area near the washer fluid reservoir) - however Lexus fitted a new one under the Extended Warranty. - At 80K miles I noticed what sounded like a failing front wheel bearing noise on one side. Lexus checked and agreed and replaced this under the Extended Warranty, also taking it on themselves to replace the other side too as having done one side they thought the other side sounded like it was wearing. Again, this was all done under the Extended Warranty. I also took the opportunity to have Lexus change the front discs and pads as they had everything apart anyway and they would have needed doing within probably another 20k miles. Other than the above, that is it. Beyond normal maintenance, tyres etc. all it has cost me is just one set of discs and pads on the front (the Extended Warranty paying for the screen wash sensor and front wheel bearings). The rear discs and pads are still original with plenty of life left in them (though the discs are getting a bit pitted now). The 12V battery is also still the original and no sign of any issue when the hybrid health check was last done. I’ve recently left the car for well over a week and no problems starting it. I have not looked after the car especially well (beyond making sure it has always been serviced regularly) – as I said it’s been a work horse for me. Occasionally I wash it if it has got particularly dirty – and Lexus wash and vac etc. at each service and MoT. Despite that, after a wash, the paintwork (Mercury Grey) comes up well with very few scratches or swirl marks etc. The wheels could do with refinishing as it looks like the previous owner scuffed them and had them repainted before trading in (they were not done by Lexus as they have no record of doing it) and the paint that was used is now coming off. The car has transported me around the country many times and always leaves me feeling refreshed after a long journey. The seats are still just as supportive as when I first got the car. Fuel economy has been unerring over the years, an overall average of 48mpg on the car computer and it continues to deliver this today. It drives much the same as when I first got it, no undue clunks or rattles. In fact, yesterday I had a one-year-old UX 250h with 9K miles on it as a courtesy car while mine was in for the MoT and driving them side by side you would never know my car was 7 years and 110K miles older! So, I thought this might be useful to anyone looking today at buying an IS 300h and looking at running it to (or past) this sort of age and mileage. Find one that has been serviced according to the schedule and has been used regularly (cars that sit for a long-time unused IMHO have more problems than those that are used regularly) and you should have some good years and many miles left in it. Had Lexus continued to bring the IS 300h into this country I would probably have traded this car against a new one by now, but they haven't, and I really don't know what else I would like from the current line-up as the IS 300h was the goldilocks car for me. So, my plan is to continue running the car to at least 150K miles and then decide whether to just keep going until something major happens or trade it in if there is something that piques my interest at that time. So, I might be able to keep reporting each year on how things are going for a few more years yet.

Johnny Cash would know!🤣🤣

2014, 59k

You've been on those expensive management courses again, haven't you! Or else they made a big impression on you a while back. Please explain how it is anything other than a sh*t job to have to phone someone and tell them that the car you told them will be arriving in October is now not arriving in October, and whatever new date you give will probably not be believed because you've lost all credibility by giving incorrect information so many times before.

Looking at this example I’m so glad I managed to purchase the one I did and again thank a fellow member for stepping aside to allow it. I paid less than he did with everything done, nearly half the mileage and apart from a switch illumination problem it’s been brilliant.

This is purely a personal opinion. Have you thought an ES 300h. I had an IS in 2015. Splendid and looks great. In 2019 I purchased my ES. It was far superior, suspension, noise, and fuel consumption. Remember the IS is no longer available in UK. I am on my 3rd ES and love it. If the size isn’t a problem, maybe worth a test drive. All the best in your purchase.