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I've just come across an app called Tire Assistant which shows the individual pressure readings for each of the wheels on the IS300h. It's always been a slight irritation that the TPMS system on the IS300h is only partly helpful. The TPMS warning light tells you there might be a problem with one or more of your tyres but it doesn't tell you which tyre. When it's dark and raining it wouldn't be the best time to have to try and find out which tyre is losing air. This is especially irritating because, as far as I can tell, the car knows which sensor is reporting low pressure. It just doesn't display this information on this car. So I thought I would try the Tire Assistant app and it seems to work fine. It needs an OBD device and an Android phone. You start the car and then start the app and it looks like this: The pressure display is initially in bars but it can be changed to psi. Initially, the app doesn't know which sensor is on which wheel but as the pressures are adjusted at a garage you can identify each sensor by the change in pressure reading. Then each wheel image can be dragged to its correct location and renamed with its location as shown in the video above. It looks quite useful and saves having to get your hands dirty checking the pressure manually. Here's the webpage for Tire Assistant.

https://www.newlandsmotorco.co.uk/used-cars/lexus-rx-450h-3-5-se-i-cvt-4x4-5dr-mitcham-202009153748308 The garage site has a quite a few pictures

Definitely do that. A Hybrid Health Check can be part of a Lexus service or you can buy one as a stand-alone item for £59. As long as the car passes, Lexus then warranty the battery for 12 months. Rinse and repeat every year until the car is 15 years old.

First of all, an advisory is just that, an advisory and not necessarily anything wrong. Some MOT testers are over-zealous and put advisories on trivial things, so depending on what it is, an advisory wouldn't necessarily put me off buying a car. Some cars have the same advisory year after year (like my old RX300 had when I bought it) but (a) it was trivial and (b) it had not got any worse year on year. Secondly, if the car is as good as you think, I strongly suggest not waiting until Sunday, go and see it tomorrow morning or you genuinely risk losing out if someone else sees it and wants it.

Send them an invoice for the cost of replacing your second hand air strut units which were still road worthy units that they gave away without you being able to inspect or your permission and being such a expensive item very fool hardy on them .

Ah, lock down. The halcyon days of car fettling.

Looks like you caught the rust just in time but I'd be tempted to look closer if you haven't done so already. The rusted areas match exactly (more or less) to where my 96 LS400 had rusted through. The underseal gets thin towards the outer arches and these areas. It would end up looking like the first picture below if left untreated for too long 😬 I sorted mine with epoxy resin, wire mesh and stainless self tappers. It looks bad initially but when you get all the crud off and see what needs to be done it's not as bad. Not a 'pretty' finish at the end (I could have sanded the epoxy down to a smooth finish) but when all the trims are back on and the wheel you can't see it and it's done the job really well.

Well the deed has been done said goodbye to my 2011 Rx450h Se-I and then hello to my new 2017 RX450h Luxury First Impressions of it are very good apart from I preferred the mirrors of the old one.

After reluctantly selling my ISF to a fellow member on here 4 years ago due to an overseas move, I’m back in the U.K. so I’m back in the ‘F’ fold. I bought the blue RCF that was up for sale recently with TVD and just 17k miles. It’s absolutely mint and I’m loving it! Great to be back 👍

I had an mot which called into question my front nearside shock which was misting. So I bought a pair from rock autos. 3 days later..... I had to fit them (thought I had more time to be lazy and put the job off). They fitted perfectly, although it was a bugger to get that bottom bolt off. If I am honest I thought they would be rubbish and I had steeled myself against such an outcome having a different brand in rock autos basket just in case. Took them out for a test drive and BOOM I was proved dead wrong, they really improved the handling (mine shock was ,.... shot of course). No rattles, bumps or grinds just smooth smooth gliding. Now the long term test.

Since my original post, I've taken the advice of members and I've found that that running the heating on max for about an hour really helped eradicate the foul smell. Now when I use the a/c for cool air, I always try and switch the a/c off, heat on high for the last 5-10 minutes of the journey. I've also disabled the recirculation mode as I found that was keeping the moisture in. Appreciate that this isn't ideal, but if it keeps the smell at bay then I'm going to continue. Running the heater on high temperatures during the winter will hopefully also help.

Try turning to Hot for the last 10 mins of journeys for next few weeks and see if that helps.

I believe only via Techstream and then only by changing the market area coding?

Is that strictly correct? My understanding is that the 12v battery powers the entry system and the the start-up computers. Once in the Ready state the traction battery powers everything directly, via the converter (?) and also recharges the 12v?

if you want genuine, give lexus parts direct a look .. send them a question and they'll respond... usually with some discount off official prices. I have a genuine one for m IS200d, got it from Lexus Birmingham's ebay store, but I don't think they run that anymore.

Very true, but if they are asking top dollar that may put some buyers off. Personally I would always pay extra for a good one - but even with due diligence we can make mistakes and buy a lemon. Sometimes it is down to luck ............................... but you are generally luckier with a Lexus!

I use Rock all the time now, sooo much cheaper than buying here. Just remember to choose FedEx international economy and pay the vat up front and you'll have your parts within a few days with nothing else to pay, generally my parts arrive in four days.

Miracles do occasionally take us a little longer, Martin. The entire Forum will be watching this Thread Martin, so be on your best behaviour.

i have just bought a low mileage example, however I rejected some low mileage cars on the basis of their MOT history. There was a grey one in London that I rejected for that reason. Rich may be right, if the service history is good then possibly the advisories have been attended to by the previous owner - but you can't trust a car dealer to complete advisory work as this eats into their profits. Just my opinion, the guys on here ARE REALLY helpful!

Yes am sure it is 👍

Piccies please David ?

Service history is everything Martin. I would be happy buying with the MOT from July and with the much lower than average mileage so long as the service history is good. This or another, the RX400h is a cracking motor with bombproof reliability compared to its period rivals.

I didn't notice it disconnecting. It seemed to be connected for as long as I wanted to look at it. The app does say it will shut down if you drive the car. I assume you were stationary and the app didn't shut down. Instead, I assume the app said it had lost the connection - this would suggest the OBD device had lost the bluetooth connection. I don't think you actually need a subscription - as far as I understand it the subscription is just for the Carista app. The device I used is borrowed so I didn't know anything about the subscription. I've just borrowed it to test the Hybrid Assistant and Tire Assistant apps. Both worked for me without problems and they are both free. If you buy one from Amazon you could always return it if it doesn't work for you.

Excellent review covering a number of the current crop of All-Season tyres.

Passenger side door jam On the plate will be a 3-digit code. On my car it's 1G1

Hi Julian, have you checked both B pillars for the vehicle code stickers? If there aren't present, then you can run your VIN# through online decoders to figure out your paint code. Good luck, Cheers, Lee

Hi Kevin. I suggest you ask any questions you have about the 500h in the LC or LS sections. You haven't made it clear which car you're considering but in this forum you'll find your answers in the relevant sections.

Great car and great colour, love the very modest modifications, really makes it snap. Going to put my Carbon up for sale I think. Fresh service, fresh pads, fresh front tyres and fresh MOT - I think it’s time. ...is consensus that A/T is best marketplace these days?

An MOT in Dec 19 would not require another one for another 3 months. If the Dealer selling this vehicle has done or arranged for the MOT to be done, I would walk away. 43K miles in 15 years equates to less than 8 miles daily !!

I have some new black with grey trim 5mm heavy duty rubber mats allegedly for a GS300. They are of good quality and came from Car Mat Kings in Glasgow. They do not fit my 450 - the retaining feature is a middle screw rather than two holes and the driver's mat covers the accelerator. See picture of label. The present eBay entry for the GS300 mats is different. They may fit a 300. I would be very happy to give them away. You are welcome to collect in person (OX3) or get carrier to collect for you. John

I HAD forgotten that!

You are correct the box just controls the operation the removal of the steering column shroud behind the wheel and the bottom panel in the footwell is easy just a series of screws.

I don't disagree. All the more reason not to assume an update will work correctly. 😞

Yes, in the Lexus cars for sale forum using the correct template.

Have you considered? https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

Thanks Paul, I'll check that out when it stops raining!

The clear parts have been tinted (just film) and the windows surrounds have been de-chromed.

Well found this post eventually 2015 posting on telescopic function Seems like a common problem but not a quick fix given where the motor is

You can't just "find the part" without proper diagnostics first. The error code (in your case P1349) is just a starting point for more investigation.

Today's little jobs were to sort out the virtually non-existent parking brake and see to a couple of patches of surface rust on the inner rear arches. Wheel off (with the help of a rubber mallet) and shoes adjusted Brushed out all the ******* that had gathered in the bottom of the arches Generous coating of Waxoyl. Sorry, forgot to take a pic with the wheels still off. But I'd quite forgotten how good Waxoyl smells! Job jobbed!

These are indeed important considerations but surely the first thing you need to establish is that the RX is the car and best model for you. As regards speed, they are all good for about 7.6sec 0-60mph from standing start and a top speed in excess of 120mph which is probably enough for people driving this type of vehicle. It is not the sort of car you take round the Nurburgring or demonstrate at Japfest. What may be an important factor for some is the type of automatic gearbox fitted which provides a continuous surge but to those unused to CVT seems like clutch slip with racing engine under moderately hard acceleration. This might be a deal breaker for some. I prefer the more conventional transmission but have become used to RX CVT type box. Brakes are generally pretty good and certainly adequate, although I have experienced better at high speed. The colour choice is not very extensive, black, white, silver and grey being most numerous followed by burgundy. There are a few other colours, particularly with older cars which included blue and a sort of beige but by looking only for one of these you would seriously reduce your choice. MPG for a large, heavy and comfortable car such is the RX hybrid is reasonable and depreciation is probably less than other SUV's in this sort of category.

My point exactly, Piers.

I don't know if the DC/DC converter has any overcurrent protection to prevent the recipient car from trying to draw too much current, but I would hope so. As I understand it, the 12V battery and the converter sort of work in tandem in this context and, in theory at least, everything should be alright as long as the donor battery is healthy and is up to the job. However, if it's not, then the shortfall will have to come from the converter and that opens up the possibility of big problems. I suppose one way around it may be, as you say, to not have the hybrid in READY mode so that the recipient car only draws from the hybrid's 12V battery. The problem then, of course, is that we know they aren't very big and so you may run the risk of flattening your own battery.

No offence Neil but you've just been lucky. The crucial thing is that the recipient car does not draw on the traction battery as you state above. The battery of a conventional car is only used for cranking the engine and the starter motor can draw more than 300A while doing this. Once the engine is running and the alternator is spinning, the alternator runs all of the electrical systems (and also replenishes the battery) so the recipient car draws power from the donor car's alternator, not its battery. This is all well and good because an alternator can supply plenty of current, with some of them being capable of outputting 300A or more. Our hybrids don't have alternators, they have DC/DC converters instead, which is basically a complicated box of electronics that steps down the traction battery voltage from approximately 288V to 14.5V but crucially at nowhere near such a high current as a standard alternator would supply. It takes less than 20A to get my RX450h into READY mode so the DC/DC converters are not rated to output hundreds of amps and if the recipient car tries to draw anything like that, then there is likely to be a big bang and lots of smoke from the converter, which will translate to a huge dent in your wallet. To me, it's just not worth the risk.

If you've only had the car for a few weeks I'd take it back to the dealer you bought it from and get them to sort it under warranty, especially if it could turn out to be something expensive. And to put your mind at ease, there is absolutely nothing wrong with jump starting a hybrid. As long as they got the polarity correct (which I'm assuming the man from the AA did) then that's fine, although you should never use a hybrid to jump start anything else.

Ah! that's great I'll check the glove box and the virtualbox too, thanks ever so much. I'll get a few photos as well. Ideally not showing the bubbling on the alloys. I think it's going to be a while before the semi-gamification of balancing the self-charging with running on the hybrid batteries and keeping to around 30MPG (BMW same age nearer 15MPG around town) wears off. I can't imagine what it would have been like having this in 2007, something from the future then I am sure. I know it's not exactly a Telsa Model X, but that was 8 years away.

Good old school tickering half expecting to see a spitfire amp meter for nostalgia

Download and view these pics large to see the info you need. Sorry anout the shadows!

Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!

Well only the other day I was thinking how the steering wheel had not made a the 'rubbing noise' it did from time to time when retracting. It was only today I realised it actually does not retract and when I pull key out of ignition. When I try a using the tilt/retract control it seems like there is something trying to engage (the column housing moves a smidge) but nothing happens. Tilt function works, and the steering wheel is at least stuck in by best driving position. So not sure if the motor is not working or some linkage is not working. Had a scout about the forums but not found anything (other than if the tilt/retract does not work, all a bit expensive to sort). Any ideas on what my exact problem might and what to take apart to get an idea if worth sorting.