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I must check the rear camera. It was a bit presumptuous of me to be in The German Lane, wasn't it?

Hello all, First of all, thank you to the admins for such a well organize group. Loving the member discounts and the forum information, really useful tools. Thank you also to all of you that posted here lots of information, it´s been such a great help for me... I just bought a used Lexus LC500h sports plus 2017 with 39k miles on it, in grey. Interior is red and black. I am not a friend of chrome, so the first thing I´ve done is blacking out the front trim, the trim above the taillights, and the chrome arches. Right now I am in the process to try and update the maps, got the code and downloading them now...wish me luck!!

My car now back on original wheels with Michelin pilot sport 5 tyres. The ride is good, a lot smoother and it feels good on the road.

I am 71 live in a rural area have full no claims and my wife included limited to 5k a year and my insurance has just crept over £200 with the AA first year they threw in breakdown cover for an extra £15

If you sign up to lexus.eu https://www.lexus-tech.eu/Default.aspx go to the Repair tab https://www.lexus-tech.eu/Menu/Repair and then you can input the VIN to give you the complete build sheet for your car. It will not tell you what is 'extra' as that would require a baseline but it is genuine Lexus information...

Applied the vinyl wrap to the passenger door trim which was the only one with chunks of paint missing. Spent a bit of time working out the best way to do it. Wound the passenger window down, measured a length of wrap and applied it. Trimmed the edges and it went on really well. Shut the door and was very pleased, ready now to do the rest. The rest are in good condition with no paint missing but I wanted them all to match. However, I stood back and looked at the result. The finish is pretty close to the rear door so I didn’t bother doing the rest. Next job………the black button on the rear passenger side glass were most of the paint has gone. Button is the same size as a 1p coin so just that as a template to cut a circle. Dried the button and applied the wrap. It’s not perfect and I may do it again if it starts coming off after washing etc but it’s a hell of a lot better. Overall I’m pretty chuffed and thanks again to Howard for suggesting it. pic of before wrapping, not the best pic cos it’s cropped from another pic of the whole car but you can see where the paint is missing and I’ve used a permanently marker. Trim done button done

Just to stay on the topic of insurance no claim attempted but carrier gave all EMA passengers a £10.00 voucher, complimentary inflight drinks, seat reservation refunds and meal refunds.

Hi all Here's my Gs300 Sport Design.55k on the clock. Gold badge from 1999.

Seems like a silly question, but have you pressed the door button next to the courtesy lights? That can disable all interior LED's when the doors are open.

If it uses the same key as the previous NX, you can turn the key signal off. You press and hold the lock button, then press the unlock button twice. It means you have to use the unlock button next time you use the car, but it definitely works.

I don't bother with trip reports. Fill up to fill up is really the only accurate reading you can depend on.

Can you see small round button-like inserts in the front valance area? If yes, are the parking sensors switched on? The button will be identified in the handbook

Start from the basics: -First check engine oil level & are you using 0w20 grade oil - Have you by any chance sprayed brake cleaner into the throttle body? Or drove through a deep puddle air filter may be soaked tell tale sign. (Have heard this noise before on a petrol engine after cleaning the throttle body but it went away within 30 seconds.) Could it be a bad batch of fuel, top it up with 5-10 litres of V power see if it dilutes the fuel to see if it makes a difference. *Has this noise started after undertaking any maintenance? If so try & trace it back to what work was done. If it is a fuelling issue injectors or spark plugs you would expect a misfire or engine code.

Do you mean Lexus Relax? Terms here. Suspension: Front and Rear Springs; Torsion Bars; Track Rods; Stub Axle; Cross Members; Sub Frames; Wheel Bearings (limited up to 160,000km); Hubs; Shims; Lock Nuts. So unless you're over 100k miles, and it's the Relax warranty, I'd wave a copy of their own document under their noses and see what they have to say. Relax is still new enough, so it's possible some dealers might not be as au fait with it as they ought to be.

Steve, thinking about your upcoming purchase then ? I'd sure get the Dealer to replace all those Advisory Suspension issues over some years, on your target car purchase seeing above, the garage 10hrs to do 4 of the 10 ... is it ................ at UK Main Dealer prices that's £2k min labour charge alone ( gulp ! ) Take care eh ! Malc

Are there rotator caps on top of valve stems? A shot in the dark, have they bottomed? It does sound top end valve train. So strange no miss or lack of power? Hope you soon find a solution.

Hi Matt88 Just being lazy: yep, just a simple tee similar to this: I will add a non-return valve in the feed tube. Regards Richard

When you say "completely" dead - do you mean that the engine doesn't crank or start, but you can switch on the sidelights/headlights, or is absolutely nothing working at all?

Hello John. Probably need a bit more information, but are you saying you can get into the car but nothing happens when you apply the foot brake and press the start button? So the car battery’s flat? Is the gear in park, if it’s an auto? Try applying the foot brake, pressing the Lexus logo on the key fob against the Start button as you press it. Otherwise it sounds like you’re going to have to get a jump start from another battery or a power pack. You may even need to replace the key fob battery as well.

Honestly and seriously? Take it straight to an auto electrician and let them sort it. Unless you have the test gear, wiring diagrams and the knowledge (and if you had, you wouldn't have asked for help in here) you stand a very good chance of making things worse rather than better.

Absolutely agree - have/will use Lexus dealer for my 12v battery.

no

I don't think you can compare it with speed limit. Not only they are clearly posed, but most of the time we know exactly what margins are, so the point about abusing it doesn't stand either. The speed limits are very clear and you can get fine for 0.1MPH over the limit (I once got it for 2MHP). That police chooses to set cameras with some margin on top and they don't get triggered right away that is another mater (it is their internal guidance not the law). By the way they are not being nice, this is limitation of cameras they use as they have margin of error. So as far as I am aware these margins comes from meteorology standards which are used to certify the cameras. And we know what it is, because their guidance even thought not public document (sometimes it is depending on the force) can be requested on FOI (so we know that for the moment it is +2MPH+10%). But that said they can still prosecute lower if they wish. I think in my case it was average speed and perhaps different margins applies (it was 70MPH motorway where I did 52MPH on non-existent "roadworks"). Going by example above - speed limit is 30MPH, the margin allowed is 30+2MPH+10%, you will get fine if you do 36MPH past the speed camera. So my question is not "when the camera will trigger on 30MPH road?" (although that would be cool to know as well), but first of all my question is "what is the speed limit on this road?", because there is literally no clear criteria when car can be considered tailgating. So what is tailgating distance to begin with? Is it 109.5 meters at 70MPH? (that what HC seems to suggest), the second part we don't know but it would be cool knowing it - perhaps they are set to trigger based on say 20 meter + 0.5s which would make it so they trigger at any distance less than 36 meters at 70MPH? I am assuming police must have guidelines of when to trigger the camera and prosecution. What I am saying comparing it to speed limit is not like for like comparison - we know speed limits, we just sometimes don't know the margins. We don't know exact criteria for what is "tailgating", and we definitely don't know the margin. Yes we do know that drivers are advised to keep at least 2 seconds gap at any speed (3.5 seconds at 70), but that is not only advised, but literally impossible to follow in practice - nobody is driving 109.5 metres apart! Even 62 meters (which would be 2 seconds) is luxury we simply don't have. The cameras can't work on such vague criteria, they must have specific rule on when they trigger. The discussion so far suggest that most of LOC members, many of whom (if not most) are experienced motorists with 100s of years of experience in this thread alone don't know what criteria is and are dumbfounded by this idea of "tailgating cameras". This just shows how stupid is the idea in the first place, how unclear the conditions are... I thought that maybe I am missing something and maybe they announced something somewhere, or maybe it is written somewhere in HC and I just don't know. But no, it seems really that vague - "camera will trigger somewhere between 1 metre and 109.5 meters, likely somewhere around 62 meters, but nobody knows". And I appreciate the point that they not issuing fixed fines and the court has to decide, but the camera has to decide somehow that it needs to trigger before the case goes to court. Camera does not have 3 judges siting in it and judging what was too close, it has to have some criteria, based on something that is published and drivers must follow. Sorry for long post, but it seems this one needs law clarified before the cameras can be put on the road - so they just started it other way around. Otherwise it will be just cash cow... and I know exactly how it will work. The NIP will say - either you admit tailgating and accept £1,000 + 6 points (same as if police would have stopped you) or you disagree and it will go to court where you risk up-to £10,000 and 2 years in jail for "dangerous driving". So event thought this is not intended as fixed fine, it will work as such in practice, leveraging on the basis that majority of drivers are not legal experts and won't take their chances in the court. Especially considering the criteria isn't even clear, so it isn't even clear if the case can be defended at all. And for those few who will choose to defend it will be thought as well, because getting lawyer will likely cost close £1000 in itself. So the only way I can see unfair fines being beaten is when the lawyers themselves will get caught. Basically it means masses will be subjected to unfair fines where everything is stacked against them from beginning and majority will accept the fine, not because it was fair, but because they could not defend it.

Road tax for the NX300h is €280 annually. As you are changing your place of residence to Ireland you should not have to pay any VRT (Vehicle Registration Tax). There is a Lexus dealeer in Cork and I have found tem very efficient any time I have had cause to use them. Parts prices are in general within 10% to 15% of what you would expect to pay in the UK. Hope this helps, Dec.

I'd recommend you get a cheap stethoscope to try and narrow down where the noise is coming from: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht171-mechanics-stethoscope/ It could be an injector, fuel pump, cracked exhaust manifold in addition to something from within the engine.

You are indeed correct Malc. The 2nd gen facelift LS400 is my favourite car ever. I really don't want it to go. And this LS430 is growing on me, it's clearly a different sort of car from the 400

Thanks both. As the MOT expired in June 2021 and it hasn't moved since then I drove it straight to MOT garage on collection and asked them to MOT it before doing any of the work as I was curious. Unbelievably it passed with 4 advisories, front discs and pads and rear discs and pads! That was it! Unbelievable quality these cars. Obviously these have now been replaced, new spark plugs, oil and air change, cambelt, water pump and serpentine belt and power steering fluid change. I've been driving her a lot since and she's really growing on me and she's loosened up significantly (in a good way!) now she's being used again! Drivers heated seat is dead and passenger seat is virtually dead. The rears work a bit. As it was so cheap I'd like to get these sorted but I don't know anyone that could replace the heating elements, which I'm assuming is the source of the failure. Steering column motors are both gone but I've got breaker replacements so we'll see how they go. Plus I've got a decent breaker replacement sunroof as this one is really rusty along the front edge. So I'll treat the new one and swap them over, looks like 4 Torx screws and it's off. I do love a fun, cheap project for the winter!

Thank you for the advice Anthony, I will sell the wheels complete with the nuts, I would be happy with £450 for the set, as you say I will put them on the page for wheels and tyres.

on a more simplistic note ............ when replacing my ordinary 12v battery I seemed to have used the Lexus - Toyota spares dept in Canterbury ..... OK it's not very often of course ...... BUT the OEM and actually Yuasa supplied Toyota battery was hardly more expensive than from anywhere else ............ and of course fits a treat 🙂 And I did various on-line comparative searches for pricing etc too Malc

The key is good, the battery is almost new, i can lock and unlock the car from 30 meters without hesitation. And I tried using both of the keys. anyway, if I the key was low the car would say that the key is not detected and I would have to put it closer, but I did anyway, in the video I even how that the key is in my hand. Best regards

Don't knock yourself Ken that's a fancy title and I bet you didn't get it if you weren't full of appropriate knowledge and skill. There must be a small task you can undertake on your car which you could start with. It would help your confidence to look at a further project. The biggest thing is to not worry and have fun doing it! Anthony

If its red fluid then yes its your transmission fluid. If its clear fluid its the Air con pipe releasing water from the condensation pipe it sits directly above the CTV transmission case. Its perfectly normal & put your mind at rest your driving a Lexus afterall

Some new small cracks found today, thought I would recheck as winter is coming. This time there is one behind the right light cluster too. Both now silicone sealed.

I know what you mean and I've experienced quite a lot of that in my career, but little of my technical knowledge transfers into practical help with my subsequent life—especially car electronics! I won't bore you with the detail, but as an example, there's little call for the know-how of an international project manager of artillery weapons in retirement! Fortunately, it left me with sufficient funds to pay for my needs. There are times when I'd like to have hands-on know-how, but I've left it a bit late to start now!

Coming back from Bristol to Reading one evening last week, there was an issue on the M4. Not being in a hurry, I decided to take the A420 out of Bristol to Chippenham, and then the A4 through Calne, Avebury, Marlborough, Hungerford, Newbury, Thatcham and then Reading. This wasn’t a quick journey - M4 usually takes about 75 minutes, and this took two hours…but, with an average speed of 40-50mph rather than 70mph, I managed a fuel economy I never thought I’d see on an RX. 42.3mpg shown. Sometimes it’s nice to take the ‘road less travelled.’ It was a lovely drive. Just not the best if you’re in a hurry!

GY64VCC was a Lexus GB press car, one of their very first. I've never owned it, but have driven it a few times. So too has Jeremy Clarkson, but he didn't like it very much.

Right, firstly I had an Auris 1.8 hybrid estate for 3 years prior to the Lexus so will include that in my comparisons. Auris was slow struggling at times on inclines and not great for overtaking, you had to work it hard for any results. The ride was ok but still felt like a small car. 3 years motoring and it needed nothing but servicing and a new set of tyres. Overall MPG 59. Lexus was a transformation with plenty of power and appealing looks. I had the Advance model with lots of toys and really comfortable leather seats. It's the one and only car I was proud of and received lots of positive comments. Ride was always on the firm side and you knew it was a heavy well built car. Parking on an incline made it a challenge to open the heavy doors at times, I'm not getting any younger. Overall mpg 48. Corolla, early days and first impressions are very positive. It feels bang up to date, looks sharp in gleaming red paintwork, drives well and gives me all the space I need. I've quickly found a good seating position and instantly feel at home. Basic Icon model with no satnav, wing mirrors you fold manually and fewer electric toys. I'm old school and don't mind that one bit. Been told it's easy to setup google maps from my mobile with bang up to date maps unlike my Lexus. It's a lively car, feels much lighter and more nimble than the Lexus and has so much more power than the Auris. Deliberately stayed in Eco mode on a local incline with no trouble, one that I had to work hard in the Auris. Technology advancements, this has lithium hybrid batteries, have really transformed a dull 1.8 hybrid to one that gives me total confidence. The ride is a big improvement over both the Auris and Lexus, as mentioned the Auris felt like a small car and Lexus was on the firm side but this Corolla has a big car ride and is so much smoother. Have noticed the Corolla is much quicker to drive in electric only mode and even on the motorway travelling in traffic at a steady 65, very impressive. So far I'm totally happy with my choice.

Discovered this on a recent Jet2 flight when they combined 2 into 1 so we flew EMA to BHX then to destination.

Just returned from a fortnight in Pefkos Rhodes. Hotel was maybe 25% occupied, same with beach sun beds and restaurants but the flights were almost full both legs. Only saw a handful of people with masks on apart from the Chinese “massage massage” girls on the beach who all had them on. Back on topic my insurance premium halved on renewal but this was due to having no NCB the previous year having gone from “Classic car insurance” back to mainstream.

Why have you been putting air freshener on your rear spoiler?

Midnight Developments in Walsall.. Amazing service & skill.

You finally found one! Up where I am their camouflage must be next gen, I have yet to see one.

James I worry about you. If the occupants we’re going to the Airport, I’m sure they would be heading for the Executive Lounge, before boarding 1st class.

if it were me I would keep BOTH ................. it's only money and you don't get pleasure from that unless you spend it on stuff you really really enjoy Malc

Nice!! Can I steal your passenger door? Mine is rusting along the trim The facelift LS430 runs on 18" wheels and smaller sidewalls, so it feels less wafty than the 400 on 16" or 17", or even the pre-facelift on 17". The benefit is when/if you throw her at some bends when the tyres and suspension do their thing and she grips! The drivers seat is not as good as the 400. I have no idea why they went backwards on that. Tilt/Tele will be the motors or possibly the connectors, but it's common as you say. When the air shocks go, you can either replace them with new (£££) or used (£) air shocks, or with coilovers (££) which are pretty good, but not as good as the air shocks as they lack the dynamic adjustments done by the suspension controllers. You will also lose a little fuel economy on motorways as the car will no longer lower itself and it won't feel as planted in the twisties, again due to the lack of adjustment. Several on here have gone for the coilovers. My 2004 is at 137k miles and the air shocks are fine. They could last to 250k (I know of one in the US) or could die tomorrow. I don't let it worry me as they normally give plenty of warning, unlike the Merc S-Class air shocks that just collapse without notice.

My thanks to all of you for your kind and supportive comments. I realise I must seem a bit odd to all you youngsters—87 and still driving in a sports car, at that! I've begun to find people raising their eyebrows when they find out I'm that ancient, but—like all of you, I suspect—I still feel I'm the same person inside this old frame. While I still have my marbles, I don't intend to stop doing what I can to enjoy life. I reckon I'm still a reasonably capable driver, with quick reactions and eyesight recently refurbished (new cataracts, no need for glasses). Only one significant difference—I don't feel the need to drive constantly at (or over) the speed limit, which was a feature of my 15 years of Porsche ownership (I had three of them, including a 928 and a 993 Targa). I need a walking stick and don't walk very far, but I can still cope with everything except cooking, which I hate! Sorry for banging on—garrulous old men do that kind of thing, I'm afraid!

or maybe .... just confirm to the insurers ( if you need to that is ) that the car comes with it's standard manufactured system ----- and unaltered if they ask And leave it at that maybe ... you don't have to go into the ins and outs of functionality . you're no expert on that score and insurers wouldn't expect you to be I'm sure Might help with your conscience and the insurers Qs Malc

Thanks for that and congratulations for ordering the RZ! I thought that price is guaranteed no matter what after you place the order?

forgive me BUT I think there is an incredible lack of info from everyday users, anywhere, on the Ls600 and that's why I raised this thread ......... for my own and others awareness when considering a possible change to the Ls600 It has certainly brought out a few more items of note on the Ls600 but nothing like the data we get on the others in the Ls range Malc

I don't think they did. Not at corporate level, and I don't think they did at UK country level either - it was a dealer option.