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I pretty much stumbled on to Lexus nearly 10 years ago and since then have had an IS250 SE, IS300h F Sport and for the last 18 months an NX300h F Sport. The 250 I sold to a colleague when I bought the 300h and is, of course, still going strong (so's the colleague [emoji846]). Terrific cars and not a moments trouble from any of them, plus great service from my local dealer. However, the hybrid bug set in and has spawned into a full EV, of which for any meaningful distance there is only one player. Tesla. Many a conversation with my dealer over the last couple of years about Lexus, their hydrogen blind alley (IMO) and whether they would enter the EV market anytime soon. They haven't really, and neither has anyone else at this point in time, so I've taken the plunge and am now the owner of a Tesla Model S 60D. This is a Lexus forum, and I hope the mods (Colin you've been a font of all knowledge) have no objection to this post and a couple of pics. All I will say is that the car is incredible and the strides Tesla have made over the last 2 or 3 years are amazing. I really do hope other manufacturers pick up the gauntlet over the next few years. Quite clearly I am enthusiastic and happy to respond to questions or points if asked and allowed. I wish you and Lexus all the very best and thanks to those who have helped make my years of Lexus ownership very happy ones. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Honestly all this talk about being too tall just think what it's like for poor old China bloke then 😂 Big Rat

212,000 and going strong. Just back from a weekend near Hannover, 4 up, perfect.

No, they just spin the other way round...

Sun shining, car cleaned (everyone knows a car drives better when freshly cleaned ) and the roads dry so took the opportunity to explore the RC's sporty side on my favourite test route, used many times in my AMG. I have to say I'm very impressed Switching to Sport drive mode brings a much snappier throttle response and putting the gear selector into Sport gives a realistic manual change mode, enabling a sort of 'kick-down' in preparation for overtaking. The RC may be way down in power compared with my old CLS55 but I was still able to attack corners with gusto. The RC definitely handles better than the air-sprung CLS, exhibiting virtually zero body roll in the bends. The straights feel somewhat longer, obviously, with the reduced power but using the 'gears' gives a strong push in the back. Switching to the Sports+ drive mode stiffens up the suspension considerably, steering is very direct and responsive but on some of the B roads is a little too hard, deflecting the car in bumpy corners. I have to say the different drive and transmission modes do transform the car's character. Far more than other cars I've experienced. It's like having three cars in one. A smooth relaxed urban cruiser, a sporty, comfortable long distance tourer and a sporty A/B road warrior. No, it won't out-pace the usual Merc, VW and BMW competition but hey, the RC looks waaay better at any speed, even parked Forgot to add, all this and I'm getting a real world 40mpg, what's not to like?

@Mark G Yes he's right there some strange folk about these parts 😂

Again this site has proved its worth time and time again, never know what you might pick up with a bit of research and some language skills , well done @wildpolish all I found was a sold set 🙄 🐀

Funny enough I have Polish relatives. Although I only know 'thank you', 'good' and 'how are you'. Which wouldn't help me in negotiations 😉.

darn it..... Wasn't aware of Polish eBay tbh. An alternative 'quality' aftermarket would be Weds Sports who do a couple of similar ish wheels....

@Rusty Crobar Come on now Russ be honest it was the weight of those cannons forcing the rear down onto them 😂 🐀

No need now. Went out car shopping today and she has ended up going for Juke Nismo. Not a bad little car, 63 plate with 25k and fsh. It's got nav, reverse camera, heated seats, auto gearbox and switchable 4wd.

@NemesisUK and @Flytvr ah it does my stupid sense of humour the power of good when I can see that I'm not the only muppet on here 😂 🐀

Won't the wheels from Australia be upside down?

Sometimes you have to travel to get the best. We got our RX300 from an independent dealer 200 miles away and even then we could have found a better example if time was on our side but it wasn't. Our previous car had become very unreliable and every morning was a guessing game as to whether it would get us to work or not so we needed to change quickly and we got the best we could find at that moment in time.

Now that's a steering wheel, like that a lot.....and the car. Very jealous of the paddle shift. I had a leather IS wheel with paddles to fit but I'm a little ashamed to say I backed out when it came to the SC single stage air bag conversion. I'm sure the CF, much like wood, could be slippery. I also found that the lack of 'feel' of the thinner wooden grips on the SC, GS and LS detach the driver from the road.

Hi all With pointers from various members (farqui, capese21), lots of reading, looking at service manuals, and mustering the confidence to rip apart the interior of my new Lexus Is300h, I have managed to install a front and rear dash cam (the Thinkware F770, £248 when I purchased, quite expensive, if Thinkware want to give me a rebate, I'd be delighted). It's been fuse tapped to the interior fuse box (no auxiliary / 12v cigarette lighter socket), all wiring hidden, none running in the interior, and I believe, safely (no cables running in front of SRS airbag deployment zones, ready to whip me in the head at 500 miles an hour). Having Previously taken my other cars apart, I usually end up with at least a snapped clip or something broken. This time, absolutely nothing. No broken parts, and all assembled as if it had never been taken apart in the first place. Stopping and starting throughout, and solving problems / making decisions as I went (I had no idea where I'd run it at first), meant it took around 3 hours to lay cables / re-assemble the car, and then another couple of hours or so to discreetly fit / mount the two cameras. I used some Fablon / Sticky Back Plastic to make it look like a factory install / to hide it. I've also got full DAB signal still which some had reported they had lost, due to electrical interference. I was considering a ferrite core (if that's what they're called), but have had no need for it. Pictures are not that good, and I didn't take loads, but the process ought to be quite clear with description. For any folk across the pond reading this, it is a right hand drive car! :-) I believe instructions on the web show the fuse box is in the driver footwell, but that is only the case on Left Hand Drive! Very happy with the outcome! =========== PART 1 - LAYING REAR CAMERA CABLING We need to lay the cables. The long cable that runs to the back of the car, to power the rear camera, and then the power cable to the fuse box. I thought at first, that I'd run it above the head of the driver (interior roof trim), but found that running it along the floor was the best way I ran the rear camera cable by starting from the rear view mirror. First, I disconnected to the 12V negative battery terminal in the boot. Just in case air bags wanted to deploy on me! It lost a bunch of settings, but not all of them. It was disconnected for hours. Make sure you don't shut that boot once it's been closed, I assume the electric opener won't work without the battery connected! Next, I removed the A Pillar. Pull at it (not too hard), and it'll begin to come lose. There are three fixing points. There is a safety clip (should the airbag deploy), that prevents the trim from breaking lose and flying into the cabin. This black clip needs rotating 90 degrees, so it can unclip from the white part attached to the trim. The middle clip (half way down) ought to have unclipped itself when you losened the trim. The final clip at the bottom, is held by the plastic adjacent to the air vent / the plastic that sits parallel to the door. Just pull that plastic panel apart slightly, and the third clip holding down the A Pillar should come off. Start running the cable from the middle of the windscreen (poke it into the gap at the top of the windscreen). Use tape to hold the cable to the trim, so it doesn't sit in front of the air bag. Poke the cable between the rubber seal and the plastic to run it down to the footwell. Then, remove the long plastic sill trim that runs parallel to the scuff plate. Underneath, you'll see a bunch of the harness wiring running inside white plastic clips. You can run your rear view cable in here, alongside that, there is plenty of space. I even cable tied mine in, to make it neat. You'll want to keep running it to the back of the car. Unclip the bottom of the large piece of plastic which houses the various driver seatbelt mechanism. Also, remove the rear passenger driver side sill trim, and also the plastic that runs parallel to the driver side rear passenger seat (this last piece is a bit hard to remove - it's the one with the holes in it, where the air flow runs for the rear passenger). With all these pieces removed, you can run the cable all the way to the back, up the side of the driver side rear passenger seat, and up to top of the seat. I then poked the cable in between the trim (use a plastic edge, I used my ice scraper), all the way to the back of the glass, and then ran it up the edge of the rear window. As I did at the front, ran it around the edge, and ended up with the rear cable at the top of the rear window, right in the middle! Any excess lengths of cabling, I looped up and cable tied together. There was plenty of space for me to leave this behind that ventilated plastic trim (by the rear driver side passenger). Unfortunately, I didn't take many pictures at this point (started in the afternoon, racing against time, before it went dark). That's the cable running from front to back, to support the dual cams! Great check point! Start re-assembling all the trims. They all should clip back on fairly easily. As mentioned above, the ventiled trim for the rear passenger is a bit difficult, but bear with it. The A Pillar is also a bit funny. You need to remove the black plastic clip that you had to rotate 90 degrees (little notches to push in to release it from the body work). I spent ages trying to push it together at all sorts of angles, before realising it unclipped, and it would absolutely not go back together unless removed. It'll push nice and easily back into the body work after. PART 2 - LAYING POWER CABLE / CONNECTING TO FUSE BOX I removed the A Pillar on the front passenger side, the plastic trim that has the airbag on / off key switch mounted in it, the bottom of the glove compartment (prises apart, use the ice scraper again), and the plastic sill trim, to allow unclipping of the one piece of plastic trim. Temporarily disconnect the cable running to the passenger footwell light too. I ran the cable at funny angles (can't remember all the detail, I sepnt a while debating the best route, but I wanted it perfectly discreet) behind the airbag switch and inside the dash board chassis / frame. I had to loosen a few of the door seals to get accces or to make things fit too, don't be afraid to do that. Again, I used cable ties to hold wiring neatly in place. You need two fuse taps (they are micro, low profile fuses in this car), and used 2A fuses for the tapped circuit. One for Battery (always on / parking mode), and one for ACC On (for driving mode). I really like this cam due to time lapse mode (30 mins video, in two min chunks), good night vision, the built in battery saver (to stop it flattening your battery - no need to spend £50 on something like the Blackvue Power Magic), and the fact it is front and rear. Using a multimeter, I checked which side of the fuse was providing the power, so I didn't put the fuse in the wrong way (See https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/piggy-back-fuseholders-a-right-way-and-a-wrong-way.7524/). Wrong way, and a surge could mean the fuse doesn't blow to protect the camera. If I remember, the way my fuse tap was, it means the cable was pointing toward the driver side of the car (away from the front passenger door). That'd mean, left pin / side of the fuse slot providing power. I used the 15A "HAZ" (Hazard) for the always on / battery power (for parking mode), and then the 10A "IG I no.2" for the ACC On (for driving mode) as power sources. Worked perfectly. No interference / issues a week on. The plastic sleeves hosuing the DAB / Rain sensors, and the rear mirror mount, slides up and down. I used this to hold the dash cam cable up to the edge of the windscreen. I had to remove the white fuse box lid, and leave it off. It sits so flush / tightly against the fuses, that there is no room to re-install the it after. I am thinking of buying an additional cover, and cutting bits out, to fit around the fuse taps. I'd not like water in the fuse area from passenger feet. Neither having it kicked. Either that cap being cut up, or a metal frame screwed to the interior plastic, to prevent a foot smashing my fuse box and damaging my fuse taps. Or both. Yet to do this however. Earthed it on the bolt attached to the fuse box (black frame, silver bolt) - visible in the below pictures (image 08) PART 3 - MOUNTING CAMERAS As mentioned previously, I used sticky back plastic / fablon (rip off, £6 a roll in Hobby Craft for loads, I need about 30cm squared max). I cut it to the size of the front and rear cam, and stuck it to the windscreen (a bit of alcohol to clean the window first). What I didn't do, and wish I did, was hair dryer it, so it would melt a bit, and really bond itself to the windscreen. Can see small air bubbles from the outside if you really look, but most people won't. I wanted to do this, so the cam wouldn't get stolen. If it looks factory fit, it's usually less tempting. Great idea from capese21, I saw on his thread from a couple of years ago! Thanks! Also ran a thick strip parallel to the rear view mirror mount, to which I ran the cables up against, to the edge of the winscreen. I mounted the cameras onto this using the provided VHB tape in the camera kit (so difficult to remove the plastic bit to expose the sticky bit - cut it with a knife to get it started). Solidly mounted in place. Cables all connected up, I re-connected the 12V battery, and powered on. Be careful to check which way the rear camera is orientated before sticking it down (I've read people sticking it on upside down, and having a hard time removing it to correct it - the VHB is so strong). Before mounting the camera, I used the Android App, to view the camera in Live View mode (so I could ensure positioned correctly). Front camera is mounted off centre, on the driver side. It's out of view behind the mirror. Not ideal, but there are other things in the way. Smack bang in the middle would have been perfect. I configured my camera to shut off at 12.1V. Whilst car is on, the camera shows it is receiving about 14.4V. I set it to shut off after 6 hours, but as I've had no flat battery, tempted to set it to 24 hours. If the voltage gets too low, it'll shut off anyway. My advice: Take it slowly, leave plenty of time, don't rush the install. Flawlessly working. Any questions, let me know, I'll do my best to help. Pictures below, roughly in order. They should help a bit! Matt

Good evening all, been lurking on here for a while now reading lots of info from yourselves regarding the ISF, made the decision last year I was going to have one and now finally in a position to look seriously. I've viewed a couple last year and found that I don't fit in any with a sunroof being 6'4". Going to try and be patient and wait for the right one to come up, unfortunately I was just too late selling my Impreza to look at gib's car. Had lots of different cars and bikes in my time but never a V8. I had seriously looked into the amg merc route or the BMW m cars but they all seemed rather fragile. My decision was made when I enquired with Mercedes what the cost would be to warrent an E63 for a year. When I got up off the floor my mind was made up! All the best, Matt

I imported my car two years ago from Ireland and the speedo clicked over 96,000 miles on the way back. Put some work into the cosmetics then last year got the talented guys at Osaka Newport to replace all the fluids and consumables. Big bill, but a glowing report. Only omission was rear discs and pads which they reckoned had 10,000 miles left in them. Yesterday that was put right at service, and I picked up a new MOT with no advisories. Next year's job will apparently be the shoes on the parking brake, which are approaching expiry. 109,000 miles now and I am a very happy 430 driver. Jon

I thought I would share my findings with the group. I had be searching for some information on the 2013 ISF alloys as I would love them on my 2008 car. I found the design which is RE-V from BBS. Unfortunately they are very rare and the fittings don't correspond and I can only find the correct fittings from BBS Japan. I will continue the search but as you see below (email from BBS USA) the cost is far too steep..... "The wheels would cost about 4,000 USD + shipping from Japan + shipping to you. The last time we flew in a single set from Japan it cost about 650 USD... Japanese imports are taxed higher than we'd like.The part numbers I'm thinking are REV048 - 19x8.5 et43 - and REV049 - 19x9.5 et50 - As we have not ordered them before, I would need to confirm with the Japanese that they do indeed clear the IS-F brakes".

Nice to tuck away a few bits and pieces for the future one or two on hear collect watches would you believe I ask you watches cough......cough..... 🐀

Hi, Allegro.pl is exactly as eBay. Still main auction site in Poland as eBay came later. Prices vary everywhere. We all know is all down to condition of it. Worth asking . If you need help I can ask and negotiate the price.

There is an oem set at allegro.pl under auction no 6724875622. Roughly £1300 As well plenty of aftermarket choice.

I actually bought a '96 when it was appx 230k, it had no probs at all, but, as someone else said it had had all its services, the guy treated with care, im on 173k now but I dont even think about apart from due an oil change (appx every 5-7000k for me)

I might try to find a similar aftermarket wheel which is similar to the 2013 if I can't find oem options for when it's time to switch back to summer tyres. Might need spacers if I go down that route.

There are grants available now for firms to put them in for staff. My daily commute is only 5 miles so haven't bothered having one put in. And before someone says I could have got a Leaf, my golf clubs wouldn't fit [emoji6] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A few hastily taken pics for you. It's a lot better than it used to be, but it's not as good as the price of the car suggest it should be. I guess that's partly the American thing, and partly because you're paying for the tech,battery, and finding the Model 3. Little things like, no coat hooks, no vanity mirror lights, no rear centre armrest. Hmmmm, how much is this car? Then get behind the wheel and put your foot down, who gives a **** about a coat hook [emoji23] On the charging at home issue, a charge point installed will dish out 32 amps, which is 22 miles an hour. Full tank every morning. Oh, and of course the app allows you to heat or cool the car before you get in, and will draw the power for that from your domestic supply not the car battery. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[emoji23] Ganzoom is picking his X up very soon, I'm sure he wouldn't mind me saying. I covered the range in a post just above. It's a different mindset, rather than "how far?" It's "I have a full tank every morning, do I need more today?". Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice car, let us know how you get on. A lot of us would be interested in a Tesla if we could get the man maths to make sense. Enjoy

Mark @emjay82 Have you considered joining the Australian ISF site, and seeing if a friendly 'Bruce' there can make some enqs for you there. The site is somewhat quiet of late and I do not know if it would financially be more beneficial, but what I do know is this : Considering something like 3 times more ISF's were sold there than here. They had a much greater interest in after market wheels than here. Therefore there must then be a fair number of new or nearly new sets knocking about, and this includes the later style you desire. The main Lexus dealer in Perth as I understand from the site is very highly regarded and may be able to help with contacts supply etc. And of course they speak English, we'll sort of 😂 Hope this helps Big Rat

Wow, a post about a Tesla and no Ganzoom ? Is he ill ? I wish you all the best DJP and would also be curious to know what type of range you manage.

That is a really good question and one that troubled me for some time, especially coming from Lexus. The build quality and reliability is much better than a couple of years ago. The door handles, for example, were prone to failure I believe due to the way a cable was run. Pretty much now eradicated. However, it is still a leap of faith and they are learning and improving all the time. It's an expensive car and a mistake IMO to compare it to an established manufacturers luxury offering at the same price. I have paid a premium for the battery, the tech and to an extent funding the Model 3 and the Supercharger network. The word "awesome" is horribly overused but it's the only word I can accurately use to describe the driving experience. The torque is instantaneous, the car has the same centre of gravity as a Lotus Elise and is as silent as you like. It's that experience that makes one forgive the slight trim failings or the lack of a rear arm rest etc etc. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

When I'm driving then having passengers behind me is a real issue but I've got a 4yr old and expect a new one in jun so not bothered. Kids legs bend and stuff anyway so I'm willing to let them suffer for my enjoyment!!!ha

Just done mine in under 45 mins, very easy job.

I think it would be well worth a test run for a potential buyer, its at high wycombe so the M40 + local hilly roads would at least give an ''It seems ok'' or otherwise view of it, which is all any test drive can show, its the seeming regular oil change/services that would attract me to it.

when my 12v battery went flat over xmas once i had hooked up a battery under the bonnet i then opened the boot using the electric release it was only then i nothiced the key slot but it makes sense to have the key slot to have access to the battery incase none of your doors will open electrically.

Things to look for- Sunroof models - damp smell or floor. Check under mats and all electrics. The drop lines can get clogged and leak Rear brake calipers can stick Hybrid health checks and services 10k/1 year from last service Tyres for any abnormal wear. Thet tend to do this on the front. Likewise check for alignment issues when driving

Yep had a feeling it was the 5th injector. Same problem I had with the 220d. Glad to hear you traded it in for the awesome 250. It's soooo much better isn't it. 😀

good write up matt8 you said the following " Make sure you don't shut that boot once it's been closed " you can open the boot door with your door key as on the passenger side underneath the lip where the number plate lights are is a key hole for emergencies .

Hello and welcome to the lexus owners club. The IS-F is absolutely awesome. Unfortunately I can only dream of owning one. Best of luck with your search.

Bootifull, I can't stop staring at mine lol

Good choice!

Decent price for a Denso. Rock auto are great to deal with from experience. If they existed in the UK their service would mean they would wipe the floor with most suppliers here.

Silicone rub or spray on the rubbers, Stops the glass 'gripping 'when the window is partially open this is the best used by aircraft industry and f1 😏 Big Rat

You've obviously done this kind of thing before What's with making a copy of the kit though? Are you going to be fitting the replica kit to your car and selling the original, or vice-versa?

That is lovely, I'd rather have exhaust manifolds for that price though. I'd love some carbon fibre shifters.

Hi George, Seems you are a tad disappointed that you could not talk your wife out of the Lexus ? Give it time, the NX will grow on you, i am convinced that one day behind the wheel you will think "this is not bad at all" but of course will not mention it to anybody.. In urban traffic the NX just glides through traffic and the CVT box comes to its right here, In the highstreet it's got the looks to match, on the highway it is an easy cruiser and overall it is just a very fine motor. Your wife has taste! A BMW X1? really? not very attractive is it? and the interior is so conservative not a lot has changed since the eighties.. To be fair i do think the satnav/infotainment system is one of the few weak points of all modern Lexus. Have not seen the latest bigger screen updated versions yet but as written in many posts above that can be found out in a simple 10 minute testdrive. It still is a fine car though. Oh, and did i already mention buildquality? Ever driven a car with zero rattles creacks, thumps? My last BM ( 2014 320i) had an interesting extra in the winter, when the car got warm on the inside cracking sounds came out of the apparently expanding dash. And 4 recalls in 2 yrs, and thesame car parked on every streetcorner. Do drop us a line after 1 month of ownership, let us know how you like the car then. Dutchie

As an ex-RRS owner, one of the reasons I looked elsewhere last September was the ludicrous price demanded to replace my 3 year old car with a new one of the same specification. Now we can all see that moving the RRS upmarket even further was to make a gap for the Velar (then unannounced). A quick look at the LR configurator shoes a high spec Velar to be £75K vs £85K for a similar RRS. To my eyes the Velar looks better and will sell well thus confirming LR's marketing strategy. Does it compete with the RX450h? Probably not as even a high spec RX comes in at about £60k and you have no chance of a discount on a Range Rover. I expect the depreciation on the Velar will be low for the first 3 years due to the demand and the "cachet" but bear in mind that LR have a bad reputation for releasing new cars half-developed and using customers as "beta testers" to get all the bugs out.

thanks everybody, its a relief

Good to learn that you have had 12 months trouble free motoring Robert.. I do not understand your comment about braking as I find that there is ample engine braking if I shift the gear lever to the right, resulting in little or no driver braking required. Look it up in the Handbook. Regards John

no. that sounds like a tracking issue though