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Hard enough to read let alone do 😂😂

If you have the patience read the RX forum regarding RX 300. They are very good cars, I still have one but not for long! The air suspension can be a weakness when they get older. You also need to watch for corrosion on the rear sub-frame by extracting the spare wheel and checking underneath. If it has been well serviced and looked after they are cracking cars.

Bizarre behaviour! I presume you discovered this after the mechanic had left and been paid? Sounds like a stiff email is called for. And find another mechanic. After all, the question arises as to what else they may have forgotten to do! Many years ago I picked up my wife’s Citroen 2CV after a service and brake overhaul. Driving it back home, the pedal travel started to increase alarmingly. When I checked, one of the rear bleed nipples hadn’t been tightened up and fluid was pumping out. That resulted in a blunt, albeit rather one sided, telephone exchange with the Dealer.

Just checked the Government site - this is illegal. Their advert is false!

Monaco has always been about Nouveau Riche, at least since WW2 anyways. It's a tax haven so those with enough money to buy into it go there. As for the posers, that's because people read the trash magazines/websites that glorify wealth and the rich, so there is always a whole gaggle of Paparazzi on hand to photograph the wannabes in their latest ego extension. I've visited a few times and the biggest pain is getting in and out and that's more due to geography than anything else. Once in, the parking is adequate, mostly underground, and not that expensive, but no you can't park on the harbour front so cruising is de-rigueur the same as Southend. The speed limit in all of Monaco is 50kph and in a few spots lower. However, you'll be lucky to hit 50kph for more than a few secs. Southend-on-Sea on the other hand has to cope with 1 million Londoners whenever there is a sunny weekend (watch the press this coming weekend) so lots of parking is a must, as is plenty of pubs, fish & chip shops, gambling establishments, and entertainment for the hordes. It's a much nicer place during the week. We often drive down, get fish & chips, and sit on the seafront. The Southend equivalent to the Hotel de Paris is Gentings Casino 🤣🤣

The Legend was a dream to own and drive. That 3.5 litre vtec engine rumbled along effortlessly around town but came to life over 4000 revs with a fantastic growl. The torque vectoring four wheel drive made for totally assured fast driving through the twisties, surprising for such a big heavy car. Mine had the adaptive cruise/ LKAS which unlike most people apparently, I loved, as it made for completely effortless Motorway driving. And an unusual feature back then. Very luxurious hard wearing interior. And people shouldn’t be put off by all that tech, as mine was completely reliable until I sold it with 180000 on the clock.

Hi Everyone, What oil do you use? The 3uz engine is in the Toyota Celsior xf30 and Toyota told me that uses 5w30 oil. I asked Lexus Bolton and they told me you can use toyota 5w30 engine oil in the 430 (as the engine is the same to my knowledge). What oil do you use? For petrol I've always used vpower in bigger engine/performance cars I've had. I've heard tesco momentum is supposed to be quite good and you can get clubcard points on them but I've always been hesistent of using supermarket fuel!

Joined to share in the experience of owning a Lexus. Previously owned a 1997 LS400 and currently own a 2014 IS300H F-Sport which I have had about 6 months, and last week purchased a 2008 RX400H. Very apt to be joining today after spending my evening fitting a Grom V Line 2 in my RX!

Is that you Colombo ?

You two should be dining together at The Restaurant at the end of the Universe !

took them years to develop the self tangling hose😉

Imagine the ultimate Monaco humiliation. only some parking spaces in front of the hotel and guarded by the hotel porter. If your car is expensive enough he could tell you to park it outside in front for all to see. Eternal glory will be yours. However you have to hand the keys and could find that on return they drive the car up from the underground parking as a more exotic expensive car took your place!

So that in itself is a rule, so what is the exception to every rule has an exception? 🤔

I haven't been on here for yonks mainly because I had PC problems but with the help of Trevor (admin) who sorted out the password problems and my frustration. I'm Lexusless at the moment but always looking. Will try to make a worthwhile contribution soon. Jim

walk on the righthand side to face oncoming traffic !

and vice versa.

@Las Palmas EVERY RULE HAS AN EXCEPTION!

Hi b4u2 that car looks really well looked after in my opinion. Certainly worth a look at. However I see you are in Greater Manchester and that car is in London. Definitely take a mechanic friend with you. As for the air suspension with the car only having 80's thousand miles I doubt there will be issues but I may need correcting.

PM'd you John.

What these guys are selling is indeed allowed to be used on UK roads just like any other power assisted bicycle. It is classed as a bike as it only boasts a nominal power output of 250W and does not exceed speeds of 18mph, provided that those scary looking pedals do actually allow you to drive the wheels through manual input. The current state of the UK law forbids any privately owned electric scooter to be legally allowed on the road, that includes all these used by youngsters in virtually every town I see. The only way for anyone to currently ride one is to use one of the rental companies running trials, this requires them to ensure a few measures are in place such as minimum riders age, speed limit and no pavement riding. It's very bizarre how long the UK is taking to catch up with the rest of the modern countries to adapt laws regarding E-Scooters. They're an absolutely great alternative to the more conventional mode of transport and I for one would like to see more of an effort to legalise these on our roads.

here you go https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264004475652?epid=6025037608&hash=item3d77e49b04:g:KGIAAOSwVFJbzvUu

People always laugh or moan when I say, "Have you turned it off and back on again?" but it's a well-known phrase because it really does work a lot of the time. Any electronics can 'get their knickers in a twist' at times and a good old power cycle to allow said knickers to untwist can be just what the doctor ordered.

Go to the forums tab and click on RX300 and scroll looking for items on RX 300. The link below mentions air-suspension problems - There are other threads, you should read as many as possible.

@Spacewagon52 Thank you for all the information you gave me.

a well deserved cuppa or several methinks ........ well done Malc

Brilliant! Well done! Beyond my capabilities!

This week I have been overhauling the parking brake system because I felt it's effectiveness was a bit marginal, even though the MoT tester passed it last year. In common with a lot of drivers of automatic cars the original owner never used it, so it was no surprise to find that the left side cable was seized. I had already acquired the replacement cables, along with new shoes and a fitting kit, so for those of you who might be interested, this is how I did it. I won't pretend it's quick, or easy, but it is doable. The most fiddly part is relocating the hold down springs for the shoes, but by trial and error I figured out the easiest way to do that. The hold down springs can only be accessed through a hole in the hub, so the car needs to be in neutral. I discovered the hard way that it best to do this BEFORE removing the brake caliper, because the brake pedal has to be depressed to change gear. With the brake calipers out of way and the discs removed I thought I should address the rusty dust shields, so I cleaned them, treated the rust and gave them three coats of Rustins Metal Paint, which I now prefer to Hammerite. Once I have done the other side that should stop them getting any worse. https://www.toolstation.com/rustins-quick-dry-metal-paint-smooth-satin-500ml/p39925#reviewTab Not having the special tool the hold down springs were released using a selection of pliers, following which the springs at the top could be disconnected and both shoes removed as far as possible. However, the rear shoe is connected to the cable, and because on the left side it was seized I had to cut the cable nipple off in situ, enabling the shoes to be removed completely. The right side was easier to disconnect, not being seized. These are the various components: The two 6mm bolts holding the cable to the dust shield both sheared, but for the new cables I used stainless steel ones. Each cable is held by three clips, two of which were very rusty, although the bolts came undone with penetrating fluid and patience. I "cooked" everything in a rust removing solution, treated any remaining rust and then sprayed them with a coating similar to Waxoyl. The cables need to be disconnected from the U shaped compensator above the propshaft, and this will be easier with the triangular plate removed from the rear Y joint on the exhaust. No doubt the bolts will be rusty though, mine were. The next job was to separate the actuating lever from the back of the rear shoe, which is held on by a C clip, Strangely this clip is not sprung, so is removed by levering apart the ears, taking care not to lose the shim. The cables are handed, and colour coded, because they have different fittings on the end, which will be obvious once under the car. Reassembly involves installing the cable first, which should then be attached to the actuating arm before anything else. Note that the pins for the hold down springs are different. The cranked one goes to the rear because it needs to clear the actuating arm attached to the cable. Insertion of the hold down springs caused me the most grief, due to limited access, and it took me well over 2 hours, a selection of pliers and dollops of grease to get everything in place on one side. I tried tying down the springs with cable ties, but that didn't help much, because it was difficult to grip, push and turn through the aperture in the hub, whilst making sure all three components didn't fall out. I know there is a special tool for locking the top cap onto the pin, but it doesn't look as though it grips, so wouldn't be much use where there is limited access. My final idea was to drill two 2mm holes in the top cap and use a pair of suitable circlip pliers to feed the top cap and spring through the hub aperture. The lower washer was fixed to the shoe with a small amount of grease and the spring was also located within the top cap with some grease. Because I could now grip, push and turn the top cap, the job was easy. In fact it was probably quicker than typing this paragraph! You will have to keep the pin in place with your finger, because it's not fixed in any way. The lump of wood is to hold the shoes against the dust shield, otherwise you will be fighting that as well. This is an extract from the repair manual explaining how to adjust the system. PARKING/EMERGENCY BRAKE 1. With a force of 66 lbs. (30 kg), push down on parking brake foot pedal while counting clicks. If 5-7 clicks are not counted, parking brake requires adjustment. 2. Fully release parking brake. Raise and support vehicle. Remove rear wheels. Remove adjuster hole plug from rear hub. Install wheel lug nuts to hold rotor in place. Turn adjuster (expanding parking brake shoes) until rotor binds. Turn adjuster back approximately 8 notches (until disc turns freely). 3. Install adjuster hole plug. Install rear wheels, tighten lug nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 N.m). Locate parking brake cable adjuster under vehicle. Loosen adjuster lock nut and adjuster until parking brake pedal travel is 5-7 clicks. Brake Pedal Height 5.27-5.66 (133.8-143.8) Brake Pedal Free Play .04-.24 (1-6) Brake Pedal Reserve .2.76 (70) NOTE: If clearance between brakelight switch threaded shaft and brake pedal stopper is correct, brake pedal free play should be correct. If brake pedal free play is still not correct, there is another problem in the brake system. NOTE: If adjustment cannot be made within range of adjuster, remove drive shaft and make adjustment at cable pull rod. See AXLE SHAFTS - RWD article in DRIVE AXLES. The parking brake now works as intended and the car passed its MoT test today with flying colours. Now then, what's next on my list?

Use the key in the door lock.

It does come with air suspension which can be problematic as it gets older. Still love mine though!

No, a reversing camera but no sensors as standard as far as I know...

It's simply model differentiation and many marques do the same. I'm sure it would have been documented in the brochure but it's not the end of the world, just buy a pressure gauge and check manually on a regular basis. Something I would recommend even if one has the pressure display in the car. The TPWS system as opposed to the TPMS will still alert you to a major loss of pressure.

Only had the car a few days and I’m loving it. Heads up display is nice a first for me. Still have some problem on getting something’s to work. Only 10 minutes ago I tried open the boot from inside using the button and nothing happened so I had to open it from the button on truck.

Pretty sure this has been asked before and IIRC it isn't possible on the NX

Not so straight forward using the mechanical key! From the handbook - Unlocking the door Insert the mechanical key while pulling on the driver’s door handle. Unlocking the door. (turn the key clockwise) Remove the key, return the handle, and then pull the handle again.

You pose some interesting questions there Malc; do you mean better valet parking, or, better discipline when parking, or, more parking spots, or, when you park outside of the equivalent to the Hotel de Paris it makes your car look better? 🚙🚙🚙

I guess Southend seafront has better parking than Monaco Malc

sound like interference is stopping the fobs working if the batteries are ok. Move the vehicle to see if they work elsewhere.

I assume you've tried new batteries in the fobs?

That's a shame although I wasn't holding out too much hope. So it sounds like we might have a problem with either the Main ECU or the Power Source Control ECU. Regardless of the clutch switch which inputs a signal into your Main ECU, as long as the Power SW sends a signal to the Power Source Control which then activates the Main ECU supply it should engage accessories/ignition without attempting to start the engine. Seeing that you can see illumination on the switch means we have the 12V supply going there. Question now is what happens between there and the power source control. Depending on how confident you are in reading the above you can trace the signal coming from the power switch to check if it is indeed arriving at the power source control. The diagram below should help with locating the ECU inside your vehicle. Here's another snippet that shows what happens inside the power switch: These documents are all available on https://cardiagn.com/ all you need to do is find the desired model and search through the library. I hope this gives you a little more to work with?

It should have had the big service now whether it was mileage or time based. By the sounds of it its got 70k miles on and still on original plugs/ coolant/ brake fluid perhaps. Looks like it could do with front disks and pads soon too.

Another day - and another new box ticked in my history of education. Every day is a leaning* day (or a learning day - depending whether one is a tutor or person from Pisa)

@mepI had a similar issue to what you describe last summer when my battery died due to leaving the boot open, and the lamp draining the battery. When i tried to connect the battery again, i had all kinds of strange electrical issues. What i did was leave the battery unhooked over night, then install battery and leave the car overnight, without touching anything. Did not try to start it, not unlock or lock, nothing. Then in the morning, it seemed the "brain" had snapped back into place, and everything was alright again. Best i could read regarding it was that the brain of the car was stuck, thinking the battery was faulty, and that disconnecting it for some time, and then connecting it would be the best way forward. Supposedly not that uncommon for a range of cars according to my brothers in-laws.

350 absolutely. Better ride, better fuel consumption, no timing belt to change (350 has a chain), better road holding, . I have had a 2006 350 for10 years and it's been faultless. Lovely car. I will change it for a 450 eventually but not for a few more years as there seems to me very little to gain. Car tax is more and it uses a bit more fuel but servicing can be done by local garage and no potentially expensive problems such a inverter failure etc. Don't get one with air suspension though. Good luck. They aren't easy to find but should be quite cheap now.

That's bad luck. Another possibility is that somebody stole it to replace a lost/damaged one or for a collection. My father had the bonnet badge prised out of his BMW. It needs some effort to do this as I replaced mine due to wear. I also replaced the wheel centers for the same reason. I bought all these replacements that were easily available on ebay. The quality was very good and they are still in place years later. I doubt these are so readily available for Lexus though so probably means a replacement from Lexus.

Does anyone know the formula of the rubber in Karcher hoses? Interested how they make the hose, so when you uncoil it so its straight, then walk around the car and find its curled up again?

Hi Herbie. Just noticed you have the fabulous RX450H. When I had mine I found it so easy to drive at 30 as it was just so relaxing. Don't be paranoid about glancing at your speedo every few seconds. In a 30 set your cruise control to 30. 40 in a 40 etc etc etc. I do that in my 7.5t truck. In my is250 I do the same. After getting done for 37 in a 30 in Bradford (camera at the bottom of a long downhill road, cash cow) and after the course that's what I do. Its my livelihood to keep my licence.

Did that on a navara I had, got a hole in rad at the front Nissan Wanted £350 plus £200 labour. Sourced new rad £95 and took an hour to replace. Went to local Halfords £50 to regas. So main dealer not always the best. On another note my 450 wasn’t cold and had no leaks detected by Lexus as they did a neg pressure test, but needed topping up to get cold.

No doubt they would be from Lexus. However, Pirtek can supply or custom make hydraulic, power steering, air conditioning and other pipes and hoses, more than likely at a fraction of Lexus prices https://www.pirtek.co.uk/services/trade-counter

Just to update, Lexus Woodford looked at the car last week and found a leak. They have now replaced the hose which was covered by the warranty. Thanks all

We bought a Bosch Rotak about 6yrs ago and it's still going strong, same battery.