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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/2017 in all areas
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Not wafted ........ cosseted ....... in fact it might not be a good idea, as I would loath to be responsible for you guys being dissatisfied with you ISF's!3 points
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I use this : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wurth-Gummi-Pflege-Stick-Rubber-Door-Seal-Restorer-75ml-/261978299882?hash=item3cff1f9dea:g:aJwAAOSwjVVVsOSf I also use it on the seals in my convertible roof....works a treat2 points
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Thank you for your help. I was under the impression (evidently mistaken) that I was in the right area. I will move to the correct section. I am happy to admit that I have little understanding of cars in general and Lexus in particular which means I often seek guidance and opinions from other vastly more knowledgeable members. I am now somewhat stricken in years and am often bemused by the level of complexity of modern vehicles. So different from my first car (1966 MGB Roadster.)Hopefully if I follow your advice I will be directing my questions to a more relevant audience.2 points
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He never mentioned anything to me, just disappeared with his diet coke and his silver Toyota Avensis.......................2 points
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What, no crowd round it taking photos................. and you are kidding nobody with that can of DIET COKE, we have seen you hoovering up cake at Kemble2 points
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If this Scottish trip happens, I'd like to be wafted to the pub every evening in an LS400 :)2 points
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Thanks @Warrington guy good to know they are close to OEM which is what I'd hoped. 👍1 point
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.... I do .... twice a year (Christmas and birthdays) .... and oh yes ... I get the petrol ...but nothing that requires opening the boot.1 point
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No probs matey her number is 07974........ sorry the Guinness haze seems to have obscured the rest 😂 🐀1 point
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It does rather sound like a sticking handbrake shoe, often caused by corrosion on the inner face of the rear discs. Needs to be addressed sooner rather than later as it could jam the wheel with expensive/dangerous consequences. Either yourself or your chosen garage need to strip both down and find out what is going on. Note: Also an MOT fail if the handbrake is not working correctly. Hope this helps.1 point
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I never look in my cars specific lounge, I click on "latest posts" and look at the overall input of all members. This allows me to wind up a larger and better cross section of people as possible.1 point
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Just got a quote from Tony Banks (Leeds) for a new custom rear exhaust £329 incl'g fitting + VAT. Which doesn't look too bad when compared to £160 for Lexus to patch up the leaky Y. If we patch a leak now then how long will it be before another rears it head? After a few searches it looks like several folks are running TB's exhausts, with positive feedback. Will see what my local mechanic thinks tomorrow after we've inspected the pipe work.1 point
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I think this from the ACEA specs web site is relevant. All mainstream oil available these days is catalyst compatible, so A and C below are pretty much interchangeable and indeed most eg A3 oil is also C3. I've added some emphases! There are ACEA specifications for passenges car motor oils (the A/B class), for catalyst compatible motor oils (the C class) and for heavy duty diesel engine oils (the E class). The classes are further divided into categories to meet the requirements of different engines. The A/B class's A5/B5 oils have lower HTHS viscosities, which means that they provide better fuel economy but they may not provide adequate protection in engines that are not designed for them. ACEA A3/B3 and A3/B4 on the other hand require oils with higher HTHS viscosities that may not provide as good fuel economy as an A5/B5 oil but may offer better engine protection in certain engine designs. The categories within the C class are divided along SAPS limits and along HTHS viscosities. C1 and C4 are low-SAPS oils, while C2 and C3 are mid-SAPS oils. On the other hand C1 and C2 oils have lower HTHS viscosities, while C3 and C4 oils have higher HTHS viscosities. The C5 category that has been newly introduced in the ACEA 2016 sequences has even lower limit for HTHS vicsosity. In order for an oil to meet this specification it must be a mid-SAPS oil and its HTHS viscosity has to be between 2.6 and 2.9 mPa*s. Depends on your priorities - fuel economy or engine protection. But I think any differences are very marginal.1 point
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Just fit them, look nice, hope they work ok, no reason why they shouldn't. I'll order some more next week if they're up to scratch.1 point
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My IS is being coated with Gardex which results in a lifetime guarantee provided you care for your vehicle in the normal way. An additional coating if correctly applied is a no brainer particularly if it is part of the Deal & Velvet Black needs it to pass the Fluorescent Light Test ! Tel1 point
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Yes I noticed but it's no biggee really. Sometimes the mods (if they see it) will move it over to the right area. Don, if you want to look in the right area for your car go here. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/forum/127-lexus-is-250-lexus-is-250c-club-lexus-is-220d-is-200d-club/1 point
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Yes you will be fine A3 is for extended service intervals This may help ACEA This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur). Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows: A1 Fuel economy petrol A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete) A3 High performance and/or extended drain A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance1 point
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Always up for a run out with you boys @Flytvr, @Rusty Crobar, @emjay82, and of course @Big Rat1 point
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Well, I can't say specifically for the IS200 engine, but in general, oil on spark plugs comes from spark plug gaskets, valve stem seals or piston rings. The gaskets could be a good place to start since they shouldn't be too expensive to replace. However, since the plugs need to be taken out to replace the gaskets, it would be a good time to do a compression/leak down test as well. So, what I would suggest is, find a garage that you are reasonably confident can do the job, buy the gaskets and some new plugs, and get them to do the tests to see where the leak is coming from. If the leak is not coming from the valve stems or piston rings (doing a compression test to check the rings), then you can get them to replace the gaskets and hope that solves the issue for you. At this juncture, there is no point speculating any further as to what it might be since it is impossible to tell without a proper check. Hopefully, a competent mechanic will be able to give you an answer quickly.1 point
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A serious consideration.........how many 20 litre gerry cans will fit in the back of an ISF? Or do we just draw straws for who tows the bowser.1 point
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I have a LS400 1997 and I have not found one manufacturer of mats that has a correct template. Your 1998 template Shirish looks perfect for my 1997 also, I'm looking for some replacements and may well go with this company.1 point
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The RX300 did not have parking sensors fitted from the factory. Therefore, they must be dealer fitted and unrepresentative of factory fitted RX450h front sensors. I presume you have a pre-facelift RX450h? They only seem to have 2 sensors, one on each corner which won't pick up things in the middle. They changed this for 2012 whereby they now come with 4 sensors at the front and therefore, I can say that mine have been very good at picking many things up. Make sure the distance is set to "long" Mine have been very good. They will not pick up certain things like very thin poles or low walls, however, they should pick up most things. Personally the first thing I would check is the parking sensor distance - if this is set to "short" turn it to "Long" and it seems to work much much better.1 point
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Why not fit a front facing camera, because I wouldn't trust the front censors I've got them on the rxus and they go off for no reason so maybe I might invest in a camera1 point
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Cheers, I've used ECP hundreds of times and the code box is usually at the end of the transaction just before you pay.1 point
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Just been on ECP to order the Denso wipers, I can't seem to find where to put the discount code. So looked on Carparts4less, the wipers are cheaper and there's a discount "bemine". £17.29 for both wipers. Ordered for delivery. Job jobbed.1 point
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The Valeo ones I have are rubbish, they're just the skeleton, they even look ****.1 point
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Since having the GS450H nearly one year there has always been an irritating squeak from the area above the glove box by the windscreen. I have tried many ways to stop this with little success. Silicon spray, pushing felt strips down the screen gap ect. While cleaning the plastic panels under the bonnet today I was applying slight pressure to the panel that runs along the bottom of the screen " the panel that the wiper mechanism passes through." There was the same squeaking noise. Lifting the rubber lip seal that runs along the edge of the panel against the screen then lubricating it with silicon cured the squeak both outside, and inside the car. I now have a car that is squeak free. This may work for others with this common problem. John1 point
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Just enjoy the car, drive it, clean it and in a year or so get it detailed and start again. There are far too many uncontrollables that will cause deterioration of the paint finish to get too hung up about it.1 point
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As far as im aware, there's no colour code for the red leather seats. Really it should be something that the dealer should have sorted out.1 point
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Took the GS450H in for it's MOT today. It passed without problems, and only one advisory for a rust bubble on the outer skin of the nearside rear silencer (no leak). So all is good for another years motoring. John.1 point
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