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Hi guys just an update baby is gone but got paid from insurers already bought another one from Lexus Cheltenham. 2015 same colour leather pack (folding mirrors when you lock at last). They were supposed to clean a few bits up but actually ruined it more. waiting on reply from them. As have been quoted £600 for paint correction on the vehicle ironically at every point they were supposed to clean up. Spoiler on already just waiting for some paintwork repair then ceramic again. Waiting to find out whats happened to my infotainment system just gone blank. But i am soooo happy to be in one again.

I have now fitted my new CTEK charger permanently in the car. I used the ring connectors and have connected them to the + and - terminal posts on the battery and the charger is lying in a recess in the boot. It is now a simple job to just run the mains lead into the boot and plug the charger in. If I need to use the charger on my wife's car, it's a simple job of removing it from the boot of my car and to use the clamp system when charging the other car. The first time that I used the charger I ran the mains cable through the passenger window and then wound it up as near as closed as possible without catching the cable. What I would really like to know is, is there a route that I could take the mains cable to the boot without danger of crushing the cable or damaging the door/boot rubbers? When I fitted the cable to my battery, I encased it in some additional insulation (the outer of some electrical cable) as an additional safety measure. Not too sure that this was absolutely necessary but, I've always been a bit of a belt and braces sort of chap.

Years back my Mark 1 was serviced by Lexus in the first two years of my ownership ,the fuel filter change came up in the service schedule and the service manager said they reserved the right to not touch it as the unions were corroded and from experience knew it was a nightmare.I reluctantly agreed and eventually forgot about it, the car eventually did 180k and I never had any trouble with the filter. Just to be clear I am not advocating the omission of service requirements but if you know the history of your car and have never put derv or bad petrol in mixed with water etc then the filter should be fine and there is a filter on the fuel pump .

Hi. I have bit the bullet and bought an rx 450h from a lexus dealership. Need to wait until restrictions are raised before going to see it. Looks clean in the pictures sent to me. Does anyone know if anyone on the forum owned the car before me ? And what do I need to look out for. Thanks.

Well, I've only gone and done it. Bought the car from Swindon. Got a good deal too with the help of an extremely helpful chap on here - You know who you are! I am now a proud Lexus owner. Just got to sort out collection in this weird Covid-19 world of ours.

I know i was a bit shocked at the price but just relieved the car was fixed, i couldnt find any other hybrid specialists so im thinking maybee keep this guy on side, i have messaged him letting him know if he wants the inverter he owes me a good rate if i need another job doing

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/116161-my-is300h-thread/?do=findComment&comment=1057773 Try this now [emoji6] scroll to post no8

You are correct. Wireless charging always generates a magnetic field. If you pass a small compass by any wire with a current running through it you will detect a magnetic field. Conversely, if you can generate a magnetic field around a wire (placing a wire through a circular magnet for example) you will detect a current through the wire.

Here you go.

More than you think, my screen wash water comes from Harrods own natural spring, and it's flown from London to my house by pink feathered nymphs!

Or as the other saying goes "you learn something new every day "😁

I read about the PCV for the LS400 after reading such threads (American forum obsessions).....checked it and all working fine, a small bit dirty but nothing to stop it working in anyway so cleaned it up and plugged it back in. I wouldnt bother ordering a replacement until you check your own but would think its perfectly fine.

I believe they have changed premises and the new insurance company has stopped them fitting customer supplied parts. They were not local, but I do not appear to have a toyota specialist near me.

Personally, I would spend £20 or so and get another pair of axle stands to remove any doubt or anxiety of having the car off the ground. Regarding the Foliatec kit. I used this to paint my calipers 2 years ago and was impressed with how they turned out. I had a chance to have a proper look at them again a few weeks ago when I swapped back to summer wheels and they still look great. For application, I made sure the calipers were properly cleaned-up beforehand. The kit does come with brake cleaner and a small wire brush, but I also used a larger wire brush and bought another can of brake cleaner so I could go over them multiple times until I was satisfied they were as clean as they were going to get. I then just followed the instructions to mix the paint & hardener together and applied multiple thin coats allowing them to dry inbetween - by the time I was finished doing the rear calipers, the fronts were dry enough to take another coat, and so on. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Not sure if this helps but gives the dimensions of the terminal removal tool.

Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!

WOW … 1/3 of the cost!

Personally I would decline the add ons especially paint and upholstery products. There are some excellent DIY products available. I generally favour chemical guys products. Their fabric protector is great for carpets for a few pounds. Externally I use their blacklight nano sealant (it's fine on all colours including white). They now do a white version I believe.

Howard To go back to the soldering method have you considered the combined heat shink / solder tube .I have seen these used and they are very effective . Simply place both wires in the tube then heatgun the tube the solder melts and the tube shrinks creating a sterile joint if you use the correct narrow nozzle on the heat gun you will be able to precisely connect each wire without affecting others if you shield each wire.

Get an online quote from Motoreasy.com for Gap insurance Paul.

can you not remove the existing wires and pins with a molex removal tool? probably most of those can be salvaged - then you'd just need to solder the broken ones.

We've been using an AA Solar charger connected via the OBD port for about two years. Works well, costs around £25.

This is the view which any potential thieving scroat will see when he approaches my car: Smart Entry: Re-enabled Key deactivation procedure upon leaving car: Enabled Key in Faraday pouch just in case?: Check Note to new users of crooklocks: be prepared to set off the horn when you fit it for the first time. I managed this twice. Scared myself to death.

Cig lighter is not normally live when ignition is off so use battery or charging points under bonnet (if any) or OBD 2 port. You are better off with a CTEX MX5.

Very easy to clean and it's on the passenger side of the engine to the rear of the oil cap just above the '32', there is a rubber pipe connected to it you need to release the clip on it and pull off the pipe, you will see the PCV valve and it needs to be pulled out and sprayed through with cleaner. Check it's operation as previously mentioned in a post. Then replace in reverse. I ordered a new one and would you believe it was faulty!

Well done looking good and I believe Lexus Swindon have a very good reputation.

Yeah lovely colour! Best colour IMO. I prefer your wheel's to mine. I like the fsport wheels. Good choice. [emoji1303][emoji3] Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk

Quite understand. The pipe is flanged and the Screw in Nut (?) is very slightly flared so that no Washer is required but its the tighness of the fit that seals - I think I'm right in saying. I did suggest my mechanic put PTFE tape at the outer area of the thread when installing the new filter to be doubly sure.

Cartell says it's a Luxury, and DVLA says first registered Sept 2014 so similar to what I have. Most of the Luxury models I've seen have the Design pack with undertrays front and rear. Mine doesn't, which gives it an odd look from some angles. MoT site says it'd done 54k at its last MoT, going up by about the typical 10-12k a year. It'll be close to 60k now, if not already passed it, so you'll want to see that the expensive 6yr/60,000 miles service has been done including changing of the spark plugs. If the dealer has changed tyres for the sale then in my experience they'll fit Dunlop or Bridgestone. It'd be nice to see it with a set of Michelin CrossClimates or similar all-seasons. I can't do much more than look at mine at the moment, and give it the odd run up and down the track - I look forward to doing some decent drives in it one day.

That's a nightmare Howard - good luck with sourcing that part etc. I can tell you that my mechanic couldn't undo the Fuel Filter even on the second occasion I left the Car with him. The pipe to front was immediately right angled and between parts so perhaps (?) looking at your photo, not so difficult to cut off and put a length of pipe in if the Nut gets mangled and has to be cut off. Third visit, I gave him an American tool which I thought might just work on undoing the Nut, and he succeeded. It was one similar to this set. After he did the job I happened upon a single one on t'bay for a tenner and bought it for him as a gift. Holding on to my set ! Must cut open the old filter to see what it looks like inside. Been done more than a year ago. ps I have a length of tubing with Nut and 8mm compression joints, which i advertised on t'bay some time back. If interested I'll tell you more about the parts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Wrench-Hawks-Beak-Grips-Set-Adjustable-Spanner-Trade-Quality-4pc/153689661329?hash=item23c89e1f91:g:TFkAAOSwEIBec1Eq

Ooops! I don’t have the Lexus electrical workshop manual for the series III LS400, you can buy the plug and contact inserts but given the present situation even with part numbers this would be difficult. I would get one out of a breaker as it’s not a common purchase. Just make sure the seller cuts the loom long so you can splice the wiring. Best method is solder and heat shrink.

If the car is an Advantage then check the Diamond Cut wheels for corrosion around the centre caps and insist on refurbishment if there is any sign (Lexus UK paid for mine as a goodwill gesture). Make sure you physically check the car bodywork carefully before accepting delivery. Also check the interior trim especially rear doors for rips and scuffs. My last 2015 Advance looked great online and I was assured it was all good. Upon collection it looked fine (thanks to filling polishes). Close inspection following a wash required the car to go back and spend nearly 3 weeks in the bodyshop. This included a complete repaint of the tailgate due to a rust bubble near the corner of the number plate. This on an Approved Used Lexus. 😢

Hi Peter When you eventually get this part I would give it plenty of anti corrosion paint before putting it on the car or you might be doing it again in a couple of years.

Hi, This is a check valve that allows crankcase gases to pass through it into the inlet manifold and supsequently burn in the engine. If you blow on it in the direction of the crankcase it should remain closed. If that is the case, it works. A bit of cleaning will go aong way. If this valve has seized, usually causes engine oil to come out of the front and rear crankshaft oil seals. Chris

Glad you got it sorted Damien but no, it's not just one of those weird things, it's how the cars are designed and almost all cars have mechanical steering wheel locks. The video below shows a Honda but same principle applies (I don't know why but sound only comes out of one channel):

Herbie - - - I am sorry - - - I cannot help with any reasonable information on this - - - But will this help?

£156 including delivery isn't too bad, certainly not very expensive.

Finished painting the rear arch lips with Por15 yesterday evening. They have been de rusted as much as possible, scraped, sanded with emery cloth, degreased, wiped over with panel wipe, dried completely, treated with Hydrate 80 (2 applications), 3 coats of Isopon stone chip protector and finished with 2 coats of Por15. I don’t think I’ll see any rust in those areas for a long while i can give the car a good wash etc today, I haven’t washed it for a couple of weeks due to doing the rear arches etc.

He's clearly an amazing player and I can listen to it but it's not the kind of jazz I mean. The kind that grates with me is the type that sounds like 8 players that have all brought the wrong music but decide to play anyway! Of course when it comes to a more blues/jazz that's a different thing, that I really enjoy, and this guy sounds quite bluesy. Now this I absolutely love.

I don't know specifically for these battery cells, but in most cases if the cells start to swell at ALL they are bad and in the worst cases can be dangerous. I know I have a bad cell that did the same, I've actually got all the cells from the original battery sitting in 2 boxes next to me at the moment and one shows signs of swelling like that. From what I understand, balancing the cells is unlikely to do more than buy you another few months before the error pops up again at best. Really you will want to get it fully reconditioned and each cell will need a full deep charge/discharge cycle before you have any real idea if any of the cells are good or bad. I'd strongly recommend Hybrid battery solutions: http://www.hybridbatterysolutions.co.uk/ He'll be able to give you far more expert advice than anyone here.

But surely, being locked out of a Fiat is better than being inside it? 😁

I'm really sorry to hear this, as a coppers son I lament the passing of the days when law and order consisted of a good slap to an errant youngster and the fear it instilled, followed by a bloody good punch to the adult who hadn't learned earlier. I don't care what anybody says, the country has gone to hell in a hand cart. Nobody fears the law or retribution these days. Why should we live in fear of sub normal troggs and genetically challenged bastards? If this upsets any "social experiment Liberals" then so be it, you've created hell on Earth.

exactly what i said.. who is gonna know. but do you know for sure that modding the traction control to be permanently off isnt gonna affect your insurance? Do you have solid proof that if it was modded to be off at all times that the insurance company will pay up?

Sure you can Matt! I personally think it can be intrusive (as mentioned previously in this thread). I do not want it TRC kicking in when I least expect it on a dry day taking a corner. I'm not saying I thrash the pants off my car - because I don't. However, I also want to be able to drive the car to the limits I am comfortable with, based on conditions, without having to worry about TRC cutting in. Anyway, with my S/C fitted by this time tomorrow, I won't be able to move without it switched off......... :D

can I ask why? purely because I don't know the difference it makes - surely if it's dry and you don't "need" it, there is nothing wrong with having in on. Does it make a difference?