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Well after test driving a 2017 RX450h Premier yesterday at Cheltenham Lexus I went back today and thrashed out a deal on the car with them. Car is their ex demo with one owner since and has only 24000 miles on. It unusually has the side steps pack option as well as protection pack. Mercury Grey metallic with chocolate and cream interior Hopefully picking it up on Thursday.

Hello everyone, in this brief text, I'll explain a bit about myself and our cars! 🙋‍♂️ I'm 18, from Portugal, and I'm a car enthusiast. 🚗 My dad bought a IS 200D 8 years ago, and I still love it the same as when he showed up with with it at home without saying anything to anyone. I was only 10, and I didn't know much about the Lexus brand at the time, so I started researching more about it. In 2013, i putted a LFA poster in my bedroom, and it has became my dream car since then. 😍 We always had Toyotas before, and still have a 2005 Corolla. My sister has an Auris, and my brother already had 3 Toyotas, he owns a Renault ZOE now, and he knows he made a wrong choice by switching it for the Prius he had. We spent a lot of time together working on his cars, doing maintenance, modifications and cleaning. Reliability is what enjoy the most in Toyotas/Lexus, I'm still impressed about how smooth the transmission is in our Corolla, it's amazing! 😮 Now, I drive the IS almost every day and it will probably be given to me in the future. I have some questions that I couldn't find the answer to, so I created an account here, and hopefully some can answer them. I also want to know more about modifications, both in a performance and in a looks perspective (It is completely stock right now). Hopefully you enjoyed reading this small text, I tried my best and it took me more then an hour to write it. Have a great weekend everybody! 😎

I’ve had three DC5s and still own a FD2R which are In hibernation, what do you want to know. 😉

. Thanks . An X pipe should improve the flow and stop the drone. What you're proposing has been done many times before. How loud it will be will depend on the silencers. There are examples on you tube and on Lexus World. Richard (The Lexusman) does his that way. Good question, I didn't ask so I don't know if my big rear silencer has glassfibre around the tubes or if it's perforated stainless steel but I'm happy that it does the job and makes the right sound for me.

I’ve never driven a DC2 to compare but can confidently say the FD2 is probably the most hardcore ‘practical’ road car out there, the wife absolutely hates the car due to the extreme stock suspension setup lol.

I have recently been looking at storage heaters. Two salesmen I spoke to repeatedly told me the heaters were German made. I found that rather insulting. Yes he is missing something. Well two things. One the hybrid reclaims the energy otherwise lost in braking, and two, adding the electric drive motor enables a more efficient Atkinson cycle engine which otherwise would have inadequate mid-range torque. John

I doubt if anyone knows as much as you do John .Your contributions are invaluable.Thanks.

Before going ahead look carefully at the two services "intermediate, and full" and note the difference. You will find there is precious little difference between the two in work actually done, and if you have an MOT done this covers all the extras in greater depth. The engine, and cabin air filters you can change yourself without getting your hands dirty in minutes, and buying them online will save a considerable sum on what the dealer will charge you for them. There are Three levels of service on the CT:- Intermediate. Basically an oil, and filter change with some cursory checks or what I call look sees. These are done at 10k, 30k, 50k, 70k, 90k, 110k, miles Full. Still basically an oil, and filter change with a few more look sees. Anything found that needs doing is an extra charge. These are done at 20k, 40k, 80k, 100k, miles. Major. Oil, and filter change, plug change, brake fluid flush, and at 120k only coolant change plus the usual checks. The car has to be MOTd every year, and this covers in greater detail all the checks carried out in the services so in effect you pay for the checks to be carried out twice with no gains. Having only the intermediate service with a hybrid system check "this is free with any service and extends the HV battery guarantee by 1 year or 10k miles" will still get the service book stamped, and the MOT will cover all the checks. You must ask for the hybrid check with the service, but it is free with any service. Obviously the major services should be carried out at 60k, and 120k miles. As said previously brake pads tend to last for very high millage's, and dealers will often tell you they need changing when they do not. Also check on the Lexus web site as a lot of standard repairs are at a fixed price that the dealer does not always tell you about. This is for things like pads, discs, coolant pumps and such. John.

Apologies to John "royoftherovers" as I did not include the "18 hours ago" title above in my quote from his post. This was added by the system, but was only quoting "Hyped breed". Who ever wrote this obviously knows nothing about hybrids. While it is true all the energy comes from the fuel used. On a normal car energy "and hence fuel" is wasted every time you take your foot off the accelerator or put your foot on the brake. This is because the engine is pushed round at speed slowing the car down or the brakes produce heat that is discarded again to slow the vehicle. With a hybrid much of this energy is recovered for re use helping accelerating the vehicle away from rest. or climbing a hill. This is the time normal cars use the most fuel. Maintaining cruising at speed generally takes much less fuel. John

Bernard: As a matter of fact that's precisely what I often do, sharpening the eye and mellowing the judgement. But I find the view from an upstairs window to be almost as pleasing even without a glass in the hand ...😍

Gentlemen HOWZAT for minimal depreciation you may remember i reported an errant whack on my offside rear door some 3 months back well, the car's going in a couple of weeks time to have the dent pushed out ( no paint damage I'm told ) and will be left with two slight door creases where the metal has stretched a little Saga my insurers are ok with this subject to a fresh MOT, and the current insurance will continue with no premium adjustment. I have been driving the car quite ok all this time thankfully NOW, the agreed write-down ( off ? ) value is £1595 with the 225k miles and it will be as a " N " marked for future insurance purposes I get £815 cheque from my insurers, being £1595 less my excess of £350 less 27% re-purchase cost to me of £ 430 she cost me £1400 8 yrs 5 mths ago and at 123k miles ( so £585 depreciation down to zero value ) and apart from the usual maintenance costs etc over the last 100k miles and the fantastic wonderful motoring of that 100k miles ...................... I have suffered an amazing amount of catastrophic depreciation of ............................. 19 pence per day ................. to fully write-down her value to zero in my books HOWZAT ...... and I'm still happily driving one of the best cars on this planet Malc

Brilliant value these cars. I paid £3000 for my 2000 nearly 5 years ago and after both my offside doors were damaged in our accident at the end of September the 3rd party insurer offered me £2050 as it's also a cat N write off but non structural. I paid £300 to keep the car so that was £1750 in the bank, bought 2 excellent doors from Paul Frost for £200, one of which is the matching Canterbury blue, the other silver. So, all I have to do now is have the silver one painted. Because I bought the 2005 model for £2995 after the accident I'll be selling the 2000 on and I reckon I'll be pretty close to my original purchase price which also means it's paid for the newer car! Sent from my EML-L29 using Tapatalk

Car model? Have they measured runout on the rotor and on the hub? Have they matched them for minimum runout? Is the mating surface clean?

The second generation IS250 equipped with auto-folding mirrors does not allow for folding the mirrors once ignition is turned off. This is because the switch is wired via the ACC +12v supply going to the mirror motor. Power folding mirror motors regardless of brand all work in similar way. They have two wires going to the motor. It folds and unfolds based on the polarity of the power supplied to it. The internal switch that folds the mirror basically flips the ACC +12v and ground around going to the 2 wires of the mirror motor. I initially did some testing and was able to operate the mirrors independently using +12v I was going to build my own polarity switching relay circuit but then came across these readily available "Intelligent Universal Auto-Folding Mirror Systems". They sell on the famous bay auction site for as little as £5 from chinese sellers. I purchased mine for £6.49 as that was the cheapest seller that had UK/EU stock which came in a few days. £5 one would have taken 20-30 days to arrive from china which wasn't a great option for the price difference. The price of buying components and prject box etc and making my own unit would have cost me more than £6.49. This system is universal and works on the same principal. As long as it's wired correctly, I had no doubt it would work. The internal mirror fold switch still works just like normal. The module is marketed as being a intelligent folding system. This is because if you fold your mirrors using the internal switch and then turn off the car, the system will not do anything when you lock or unlock the car. It's because lets say you parked in a really tight spot where you had to fold your mirrors with the switch, and then if the system just unfolded it when you unlocked it, that would be a disaster. So the system doesn't operate if you fold the mirror with the switch before turning ignition off. If you leave mirrors normally unfolded and turn off ignition then system operates normally. The system works great. Below is my video demo showing the end result. I will write-up a installation guide in the coming days and post on my blog and on here for anyone who is interested.

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/lexus/ux/108379/new-2021-lexus-ux-300e-electric-suv-revealed-in-china I wonder if many of you would switch to an all electric UX

Hi Guys, Its been a little while since I have last posted anything about my LS. I recently bought a set of winter wheels and tyres. I thought I would share some photos with you as I am quite pleased with the look and especially the handling/comfort. I have also added a snap of a Celica I picked up as a project car for my son and I to work on. I hope you are all keeping warm and dry this season!

Just a quick word of warning for those of us using the Takeda Retain intakes from Afe on their ISFs. Been down on power a little lately and had a weird noise like a tiny pig oinking every time I let off the accelerator. Had to change my dipped beam bulbs the other day so took a lot of the frontward contents of the engine bay out and found this!! Just a warning to other users, the rubber intake hoses that come with the Takeda are crap and will split. Had mine in for about a year tops. Duly replaced with brand new silicone versions from ASH.

So I’ve had the CT for around 3 months and love it. I totally agree that the experience of owning and driving far exceeds the ratings given from test drives. I now need brake pads and my SatNav etc updated. I see the big service with Lexus IS roughly £500 without the brake pads I know I need. I use an independent garage I really trust (Marshall Autocare) normally but don’t expect they can do the software update. can anyone give me some advice about what options I have in order to keep servicing costs to a minimum. Also wondered if there were any service plans I ought to consider by way of long term saving.

Good luck in whatever you decide to do.

Samuel welcome to LOC, good luck with finding all the info you need for you IS.

Read these reviews. They relate to Mosesgate which changed its name to Stellar Motor Company. Buyer beware! https://www.cardealerreviews.co.uk/dealership/moses-gate-car-sales-bolton-lancashire-england

An OEM oil filter is around £12, there's really no reason to use anything else unless you're running a car on a shoestring budget. Sure there may be aftermarket filters that are as good or even better, but how are you going to know when the company gets sold and the new owner suddenly starts cutting costs by having all the parts made as cheaply as possible? The OEM filter may not be the "best filter" but it probably is the best chance you have of consistently *not* getting a bad filter. Anyway that's a side discussion, it's more about looking at the overall picture and those things are clues as to how the car has been treated. If they're all brands you recognise or can find good information about - great. If they have no branding or are the cheapest stuff available online, mismatched budget tyres and a dodgy-looking battery, I'd walk away from that car.

Just do a check for outstanding credit which a dealer normally does .drive the car for a decent amount of time on mixed roads no stereo on or sales knob talking in your ear ,does it pull well ,no pulling on steering side to side no abnormal noises does it pull up straight is the engine quiet and no smoking etc pull out dipstick colour and smell of oil freshness coolant levels ,check rad for signs of leaks and corrosion .pull up boot carpet and trim no water ingress or signs of crash damage .really the usual stuff get your overalls on and check the rear subframe and body lower seals for rot rust . Lastly check everything works inside take your time.

Run it up to temperature then remove the pan, let the fluid drain out, replace the filter assembly and refill with the correct fluid. Ideally should be done every 50k or so but manufacturers like to claim their units are "sealed for life". This is technically true, because when the fluid's all burned up that's the end of its life 🙂 but most people would prefer the life was as long as possible. A transmission *flush* is not the same thing, they typically don't remove the pan or replace the filter assembly.

Remapping will bring the most return for investment.

Sorry to hear of the drama Stuart, at least now you know the facts you can deal with it. She should take some consolidation in the fact this happens every day across the country. She isn't the first and won't be the last to make the same mistake. Might be worth checking with her insurance in case the policy has misfuelling cover on it. We would see this in work and sometimes the customers can claim some/all of the costs back as an insurance claim. Could be an easy resolution for the sake of a phone call. Really wouldn't like anyone to get hit with a 6k bill this close to Xmas!

I preferred the DC2's for out and out rawness. They really are track cars on the road and weigh in at approx. 1100kg. Problem is the good ones are rocketing in price. The bad ones are rusting away. The DC5 felt a lot more grown up and looks a lot nicer but never felt as special. Share a load of mechanicals with the EP3 Type R so spare parts never an issue either. @AlanS - not sure if you have had a chance to compare a 2 to a 5. Having 3 DC5's though. Fair play.

I have sorted finally that problem.took headlight out again and adjusted beam manually with 8mm ratchet until it popped back into correct position.Lesson learned😂don’t touch in future that headlight motor🙄

Welcome to Europe's Leading Lexus Club! Please Enjoy!

You feel it rather than see it that's the only way I can explain this. Some cars seem to do it more than others, and this may be down to small variations in tolerances of things like crankshaft position sensors. I had a Prius that rarely did this, but I had a friend with the same year and model Prius that perhaps re-positioned at 50% of engine stops. John.

The 50,000 mile service is only an intermediate service "the smallest" basically an oil, and filter change. At 60,000 miles a major service is done that includes spark plugs. The dealer should be able to do a software update at the intermediate service if one is required. Satnav updates are expensive for what they are, and in my opinion not worth it unless you rely on the satnav on a regular basis. Check on line at the Lexus web site as things like brake pads changing are at fixed prices "something not all dealers tell you about", but pad change at 50,000 miles sounds very early for the CT as most of the braking is done by regeneration. A 100,000 miles plus is not unusual for the smaller hybrids. There is nothing special about the brake pad change, and any garage should be able to do this for you. John.

Disc “run out” is basically wobble of the disc caused by either warping of the disc or not being mounted true to the hub. The fault you have sounds very much like an ABS problem, there is a toothed wheel behind each hub and a pick up sensor which detects rotation of the wheel. This is how the ABS detects a wheel locking up and corrects the problem. It sounds like you either have a damaged toothed ring or a faulty sensor on one of the wheels. You may also find that during the brake work some crud has broken away and clogged the sensor (they are magnetic so attract particles). I would first perform a diagnostic code check to see if anything is stored relating to the ABS as this may assist you by pointing out which wheel is causing the problem, even if the warning light is not illuminated there may still be a stored fault code in the ECU. If that shows nothing a careful inspection and clean of the sensors and toothed rings may sort the problem, the toothed wheels can also crack so make sure this has not happened and they are all firmly attached to the hub. The picture below shows the basics of the system in a simple form but shows the components I have referred to.

Really been looking forwards to see what Lexus can do on the EV front. The UXe is clearly a first gen EV product, with a 50kWh battery there is no way it'll do 250 miles, even 200 miles will be a struggle for it. But that will change with the next EV Lexus brings to market - hopefully with a bespoke EV platform. Our Tesla has needed this list of things fixing at 2 year old car and 30k. 1: Drivers side A pillar rebuilt 2: New sun visors 3: New steering wheel 4: New door latches FWD 5: New door motor passenger side 6: New rear hatch latch 7: New FWD sensors 8: New drivers seat 9: New front suspension links 10: New front drive shafts 11: New key fobs 12: New MCU screen 13: UV treatment for new MCU screen. In addition, the driver door latch got stuck a few weeks ago and I couldn't close the door, and the front lower suspension links is now making a knocking noise!! In contrast our IS300H has been faultless at nearly 5 years old, and if you open the bonnet its looks still brand new but just a covering of dust you would expect if you leave anything uncleaned for 5 years!! We did have a Model 3 on order but cancelled it, am glad to see Lexus has finally joined the EV movement. We're happy to wait another few years and see how Lexus EVs develop, our IS300H will am sure go on and on and on, so no worries not that front with no rush to replace it.

Congratulations, great car. I ran both of mine alongside my LS400 and obviously there was a difference in the ride but never unbearable in the ISF and obviously any issues were more than compensated by the sound 😀 - enjoy your new toy.

interesting review and it seems to confirm the general perception that it is a very good car indeed. You might know already thet the Tesla 3 is the best selling car in the netherlands this year, it is literally everywhere. Charging infrastructure is more or less keeping up with demand with 12000 Echargers in the country. Every highway petrolstation also has E chargers and these are now all updated to high power charging. Most offices have chargers as well as parkings. And of course you can install your own at home. Fiscal stimulation of companycars of course is the explanation of the popularity. Beeing full EV get delivery of the car this year you pay 4% ( instaed of 22%). So, suppose the cost of the car is 55k then 4% = 2200 euro. this is added onto your income and taxed with 52% ( if in highest tax bracket) so 2200 x 52% = 1144 divided by 12 months is 95 euro per month. And for that you can drive where you want in a brandnew tesla.

IN HJ TODAY Hyped breed? I really don’t see the point of self-charging hybrids, unless you want to creep up on old people. It’s going to take the same amount of energy to move a vehicle from A to B whether it’s electric, petrol or diesel. If a self-charging hybrid only charges the battery from the engine, where’s the gain? It seems to me all you are doing is moving the pollution from one place to another. Or have I missed something? WJ, via email If you "don't see the point", read this road test: https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/road-tests/toyota/toyota-camry-hybrid-2019-road-test/ Then tell me which other car the size of the Toyota Camry hybrid does 54.7mpg on petrol (which can be 10p a litre cheaper than diesel).

I fitted my nextbase camera today, but didn't realise the supplied piggy back fuse would work as looked different from the lexus fuses in the fuse box. I even went to Halfords (a waste of time) to get one, then ordered the actual micro fuse piggy back fuse from Amazon. Anyway, then when I compared the prongs on the fuse and realised it would fit. A bit stupid of me, but just in case anyone else hasn't seen the micro fuses before hopefully my mistake might help someone else avoid it.

Hi, Happy to join you folks. I am a classic car enthusiat, Just bought a silver Rx400H 2007. Here are some of my cars. Also own Fiat X1/9, WW2 Jeep, Merc 220E.

Ok I will see what I can do! [emoji3] [emoji1303] Sent from my G8142 using Tapatalk

HJ on German quality today Check the good/bad sections for every model in http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar and you will see that German makes and models generate the highest number of complaints. VW Golfs feature strongly, yet Brits still convince themselves that they are buying German quality. and Honda offers the CR-V with its clever i-MMD hybrid system, explained here: /road-tests/honda/honda-cr-v-hybrid-2019-road-test/ There will be a new Jazz at the beginning of next year also with the i-MMD system and possibly (but not definitely) an HR-V i-MMD. There is also a new Toyota Yaris hybrid on the way. Generally, Toyota's self-charging hybrid systems have proven to be the most robust, with Prius taxis reaching 400,000 miles with little trouble and very low maintenance costs, largely due to their planetary epicyclic CVT transmissions. I have just driven 650 miles in the new Toyota Camry hybrid (a big car) and averaged 54.7mpg.

Hi Guys, this is absolutely fascinating to know. When I was looking for a replacement car (from my BMW320dGT) I too looked at the C class. It was nowhere near as comfortable as the IS300H and definitely not as good looking. So, great to know that there will be no serious problem with it in the long run 🙂 I do about 20k miles per year so hope to get decent economy out of this beauty. Thanks for the info!

I'm still not convinced by this. Section 8.2.1.1 of the MOT Inspection Manual states that the inspector need only check items that are "visible and identifiable" such as catalytic converters etc., and if it's missing then it's a Major Defect (a fail). HOWEVER - that inspection is ONLY for vehicles that must have a full CAT test. Most cars only need a Basic Emissions Test (BET) and if they pass that then that's it, no need to go on to a CAT test and therefore no need to inspect the cat. It's also worth noting that hybrid cars do not need any sort of emissions testing so it follows that a missing cat should not be a fail. I also believe that even given the above, the exhaust system still has to be visually inspected but, crucially, only for security to make sure it's not going to drop off and/or that there are no leaks.

A couple of pics of the showroom model doing the tour at Lexus Hedge End, near Southampton, back in May this year. I always find the sign above the bonnet in the 1st pic rather amusing.

Hey guys I am new hear. Sorry I have to start of by sharing my problem. I have a lexus IS250 2007 model. the screen on the navi unit is displaying a message saying " cannot read programme. Kindly consult the dealer." now the problem is that my Unit uses a software installed in a hard disk drive. so I am not able to change anything. I cannot access any function on the unit. Any one with Ideas on how i can fix this problem?