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Well, sleep didn't happen. 220 miles round trip in my leaf was also rather tedious... And hubby got to drive the GS back. Not quite sure what to say about the car... Let me think... ... ... ... Hmmmmm... Got it! OMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMG 😁😱🚀 So... What we have is a 2015 GS450h Premier with all three options (sunroof, LED lights, PCS) in crimson/Riviera red. It is as immaculate as you could hope of a used car. Pics will follow once we get it home and detailed better...

Finally got to the bottom of this. Did one more test of the motor and it fired up at top speed, so my theory was happily proven wrong. Knowing that the motor works I started looking elsewhere and there wasn’t much more to look at really. I went back over the air trunking again and in the boot it was all clear, I blew a load of air in the pipe so the air would come out by the seat in the car and it was nominal. Blowing the air dislodged the blockage that I wasn’t aware of. I do a school run every day, It turns out that one of the little buggers has been rolling paper up and stuffing it in the vent [emoji35] the paper was getting stuck as the pipe flows up the seat to the filter. So I stripped the pipe from the vent to the first joint and picked out the paper. Blew a load of air through the vent pipe and there was good air flow. Come the beginning of next term I will be having a work with the little **** and making sure he doesn’t sit there again. Thanks for all the help guys, and thanks to everyone who dropped me PMs with info and advice [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only way to do that "and it would be more expensive than buying a battery" is to fit an standard auto gearbox with torque converter. Why not refurb the battery as this could if you DIY bring the cost down to as little as £25 but involves much work. Or better let Richard at Hybrid battery solutions give you a price to repair it with a guarantee. It will still cost less than selling the car with a bad battery. John

Selling it and buying a petrol model is the only sensible option. The hybrid system starts the vehicle and powers it in reverse gear. You would need to add a stater motor and alternator to the engine, an automatic transmission, new ECU, new wiring looms etc. etc.

Auto Climate depends on 3 sensors - Outside ambient (which shoild be ok), Solar/Sun ray sensor (this measures the intensity of the sun, sensor is by the windscreen heater vents (passenger side) and looks like a little black dome and you'll also have a cabin sensor which is by the left hand panel under the steering wheel (its like 2 or 3 slits in that panel) and depending how old the car, it could have got dusty, you will need to take that panel off and get to the sensor behind it and lightly vacuum it out as dust etc gets in there. if all else fails Solar/Sun ray sensor could be iffy.

So........ Stripped the rear quarter this morning and got access to the fan. Not a bad job really and a good excuse to clean the boot out. Pulled the fan motor out and the vanes spin and look clean, ok, that’s positive I thought, maybe power supply then. Took a multimeter to the 4 pin plug in the hope it would read 0.00 across all 4 terminals, it didn’t [emoji17] White/green 13.5v Red 5v The other two were zero, I figured that one is earth and the other is the high power fan feed as this is a 3 speed motor. So set up a little test rig and put the fan motor across 12v, nothing, it’s dead. I’ve tried to strip it but don’t have a small 3 legged puller to pull the fan off the spindle, but I’m guessing the printed circuit board has fritzed itself. Oh bugger, luckily this happened just as I was pulling into my garage and I had finished work for the Xmas period. So a new motor it is then, unless you guys can think of anything that I’ve missed in my diagnosis. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Holy Thread revival! I've not owned many cars... 1998R Mitsubishi Galant GLS 2.0 Auto Estate 2001X Mitsubishi Galant Elegance GDI 2.4 Manual Estate 2003 53 Honda Accord Tourer Executive 2.0 i-VTEC Manual 2011 Volvo V70 D5 SE Lux Polestar Geartronic 2015 Nissan Leaf Tekna Now the 2015 GS450h Premier is coming in to replace the V70 and will reside alongside the Leaf. As you can tell, I've always had a bit of thing for Japanese cars. I hate the spec stinginess of european cars, gouging for things that should just be standard - One time I had a VW Passat B6 hire car - R-line bodykit, Alloys, parking sensors, 2.0TDI with DSG gearbox..... and wind-up windows in the back!!! So of my 5 cars there's one worst and 4 best... The worst was the Galant GDI - it was a mistake to buy and I only kept it a year. Everything was on the verge of collapse with that car, and it was a shame because my previous Galant was great. The GDI engines were a nightmare outside of Japan, the gearbox was awful, suspension was dying (in worse shape with half the mileage than my previous), etc. The other 4 are all the best cars I've ever had, in their own ways. My R-Reg Galant was my first car and so it holds a special place for that. It had its mechanical foibles but it never let me down. Mitsubishi were an underappreciated brand I think, and back in the 90s they were doing some great engineering - sadly it all rusted away far too quickly. My Honda was great - great engine, amazing gearbox (rifle-bolt precise, never mis-shifted, never reluctant to go into gear), bombproof mechanicals and it was incredibly cheap to run as I could DIY service it. The Volvo is a great car because it's extremely comfortable with lovely seats and ride. The interior design and quality of materials is much nicer than the 5-series and E-class, and there's a lot of things where you feel that Volvo actually design cars to live with, rather than for the motoring press. The Leaf is great because being EV it's so zippy and responsive, even on very basic mechanicals (macstrut/torsion beam). Interior is pretty naff and the infotainment relatively infuriating, but the EV side is so good that it makes up for it. It's like my Canon EOS D30 was - very early digital SLR camera. The focusing, metering, framerate, viewfinder, etc were all awful - it was a terrible Camera compared to my EOS 3, but it immediately demonstrated the crushing superiority of digital to film (And I never felt that I had a camera that matched the EOS 3 as a camera until many years later with the 5D3). In a similar way, the leaf is not a very good car compared to what I'm used to (first thing I've ever owned without independent rear suspension for example), but it demonstrates the crushing superiority of EV over ICE.

So i finally have all my fuel system parts .... And today i made a start, 1st up was to remove the fuel tank....... easy. Covered all the holes to stop the smell of fuel taking over, tomorrows job is to drain the tank and pull the pump out and see whats got to be done. Atlast i have plenty parts to crack on with this build!

Yes it works in collaboration for 2 functions. To sense check the auto climate setting i.e. I think fan speed and also for the headlight sensor. It gives off different voltages 0-5V depending on intensity.

Vlad. The question was aimed at rayaan in response to him saying he's recently used Chris Knott Insurance Brokers. Brokers (another name for an agent) still operate as a go-between buyer and supplier (just like a travel agent) it's just that with the increasing use of the internet, I imagine a lot of them have ceased trading. Also bear in mind that comparison sites don't include ALL insurance companies or insurance providers, examples are Direct Line, Aviva and Zurich. https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/car-insurance/

You obviously did not put it into sports mode then as OMG x 6 does not even remotely describe the acceleration. John.

From my handbook - Switching between outside air and recirculated air modes Press . The mode switches among (recirculated air mode), automatic and (outside air mode) modes each time the button is pressed. When the system is switched to automatic mode, the air conditioning system operates automatically. The indicator above the selected button comes on. Outside/recirculated air mode may automatically switch depending on the temperature setting or the inside temperature From the Lexus EU tech doc for my car Also as posted above the light sensor on the dash top is dual function, providing the a/c amplifier control with light intensity info.

Looks like a surface coating of some sort to me and doesn't seem an issue.

Did applying 12v before you opened it make the PCB bubble possibly?

The IS doesn't have auto recirculation based on air quality, I didn't think the RC has that either. Is there a three way option on the recirculate button including auto?

It's a debit card with a preloaded amount of cash. Just use it like any other debit card. If you put Primacy 4 on your GS you will be very happy, likewise cross Climates

I'm a time-served electrician by trade, spent most of my working life as a telephone engineer on BT and I'm a licenced radio ham - and I've never seen a PCB like that in my life! I'm no expert but I think your diagnosis is correct - that PCB is fubar

why dont you try what seems to be the natural progression from a CT an IS300h here is a link for lexus exeter https://exeter.usedcars.lexus.co.uk/en/used-lexus/Lexus/IS-300h/25-Executive-Edition-hkbsd3l i had an 11 plate CT bought in 2013 i am now on my 2nd IS300h ,my car is the F sport variant on 18" wheels and the ride isn't harsh and my last IS300h was on 17" wheels and again not a harsh ride. have a test drive and see how you feel afterwards.

The fan motor is a variable speed three phase motor controlled by the high voltage ECU. It is a type of stepper motor. It does not have a normal 12 volt supply, and you risk damaging the internal processor if you supply it with 12 volts dc. You need Techstream or other diagnostic system to test run it. John.

They don't come up on comparison websites as they're companies who provide bespoke cover. You'll find that Chris Knott will beat most providers by £30-40 as long as you can provide a written quote from your cheapest provider.

Probably has a fuse for the cooling fan etc, make sure they are still good.

T-minus 10. Sleep might be a good idea...

Taking the error message at face value: Make sure the fan(s) spins freely and is not mechanically seized or bearings on the way out Make sure the fan(s) are being fed the correct voltage Make sure the dust filters, vents and air ducts are clean and clear

I've generally been lucky with my cars. Never really had any total dogs. The absolute reliability and 'guts' of my numerous Japanese cars mean I'm going to have to be pretty harsh on the two I've chosen as my worst. MG ZT Cdti 2004. Decent looking, well appointed and actually very reliable. However the build quality was indicative of a company struggling big time. How I never picked up on it during the test drive I don't know, but the interior rattles, buzzes and creaks drove me up the wall. At one point the entire dashboard resonated with the throttle. Also had seemingly incurable squealing brakes. Original pads and discs wouldn't resolve. A real shame as this car had quite a bit going for it. Divorce was after just 2 years. BMW 523i- 2009. My current and quite a staggering choice as a 'worst car'. However nice, however well built, however prestige, however comfortable it is inside, I've spent some serious money on that car just keeping it afloat. I've actually worked out its chomped through £4000 in repairs in 4 years. That outside of consumables such as discs, pads etc!! We're talking nearly £6 grand over 4 years on servicing and repairs. Funnily enough its actually been pretty reliable and only once left me stranded. Someone on the BMW5 forum did say BMW ownership comes as a real shock to 'Honda' or 'Lexus' man. And he's not wrong...... The two best. Honda Accord Coupe V6 1999. Conservative soft coupe which sold by the bucketload in the USA but didn't really make an impression here. Didn't excel at anything obvious. Not quite as fast as a CLK320 or 406 V6 Coupe. Didn't handle quite as well. Maybe not as pretty looking either. However this thing had balls of steel. Reliability was immense and quality of engineering miles ahead of the Germans. AutoExpress put this car miles behind the two previously mentioned cars as a brand new buy. However...I reckon from 4-5 years old as a second hand car the Honda would have absolutely destroyed the other two as a value for money buy. The CLK would have been crying out for sensors here and there, the Frenchie would have been starting to creak, rattle and squeak. Never burned a drop of oil, never missed a beat. Used to get loads of compliments from those in the know. Will I ever own something as reliable as this? Opel Monza 3.0E 1983. Another soft coupe. Bought with around 100k on the clock in 1994 this old beast was starting to show major signs of wear. Rust spots were appearing, there were a few minor oil and water leaks, the heating system was iffy. And yet....it was the Millennium Falcon of cars. Mainly due to a still potent straight six 3 litre engine which could propel this car with ease past 100mph and beyond. Was capable of embarrassing hot hatches and leaving even some turbo charged boy racer mobiles behind. It had its hissy fits, misfires from cold and once I had to give the dashboard a huge thump with my right first to bring the whole thing to life. Must have covered around 30,000 miles in this car before the suspension mounts died and the car was a write off. The Ford 2.8i V6 engine of the time often got the plaudits, but the GM 3.0i Straight six was a far better engine. Was damn comfortable too.

Do let us all know how you get on.

Good point on the 6th months issue, picked the car up at the end of August so will contact the dealer during the hols

Had very similar problems in the past.......battery

If you have had the car for less than 6 months, then any Warranty is irrelevant as it is the Dealers Statutory Responsibility to repair/replace at his cost.

+ 1 for what Steve says, very likely to be the 12V battery.

Sounds to me like the symptoms of an under performing 12v battery. Experienced most of the symptoms you describe in my RX just a few months ago. New battery sorted it.

I spoke to a local owner before buying my RX and he struggled to get 33mpg. My RX450h regularly exceeds that. Make sure you watch the YouTube video on hybrid driving

Yes, luckily access from above is OK. I paint the top side of the pipe in one pass, allow to dry then use a small piece of sponge soaked in hammerite applied by hand to the underside

A good outcome then Vlad. Shows the benefit of shopping around. If you are anything like me though, when next year comes you will forget to shop around! Happy Christmas!

This company list genuine shocks £267.00 the pair plus duty and shipping.......https://www.amayama.com/en?v=1 part number 48530-80352👍🏻

when i had my ct sel i had CC retro fitted disconnect the battery before starting unclip the airbag fasten the stalk in place and plug in airbag back in reconnect battery thats it

This one i should have bought

I have just done this yesterday. Had trouble getting the motor off from the original assembly, but all worked out in the end. The change is unbelievable. As everyone says, I should've done this ages ago.

Worst car without question was my P38 Range Rover. Abysmal build quality and woeful reliability. Awful thing. The British motoring press is FAR too forgiving of the shoddy nature of Land Rover products in my opinion. Also poor was my Smart Roadster Brabus. Looked fantastic but rubbish build quality and frequent problems. Best car was probably my Mercedes CLK, mostly because I had it for eight years and 120,000 miles and it went with me from being a bachelor right through to when my first child was born.

I was quoted £160 at Lincoln Lexus. Takes hours apparently. I didn't bother as it always got me where I wanted to be including some trips to Holland and France.

I just used my original circuit board. Just swapped the motor out. Wish I had done it a year ago when it started making a noise

I had heard that they'd added some new welds, but was hoping that it wasn't anything too significant. My 2003 Fiat Stilo I had before this rode like a Rolls Royce in comparison! (with the same profile tyres) Comfy and smooth, with little body roll, so I would hope I could go a bit softer on the CT without compromising badly on handling. However if the facelift models aren't that much better, then perhaps it's not the way forward. Unfortunately my closest dealer (and any garage with a facelift CT) is a 130 mile round trip, so I'm not sure I'll be able to do that quite yet. Maybe aftermarket will be an option.

PS. I have a fond memory of spending 9 weeks touring Northern Iberia in my cream 1955 Citroen Traction Avant 'Commerciale'. Wild camping 'in spades'; people sitting outside bars in villages standing and cheering as we drove in, etc.! Even broke a driveshaft in Segovia, but they found a replacement in 10 days. Didn't mind hanging about......

Nice ride Ok, lets steal the topic, for me it would be Camaro 1995 for sure, relocation to Scotland kicked her out to the market. And Pontiac Fiero 1984, broken a bit so pointless a bit, and gone "on general principles", but never forgotten. And Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8, fenomenal locomotive, moved us to Scotland and flied thru Europe many times, but detoriated and gone (and it would be such a fine "minicamper" for now...). And I should keep as monument one of many Granadas Scorpio Ghia we had, or this unique manual Merkur Scorpio... Damn, half of the fleet was too good and too exotic to go, but about 5-6 cars I always have given up and sold something. And relocation to Scotland deleted leftovers. 😐

How many times have I said "I wish I'd kept it" but still I don't learn!

Worst - Morris Marina 1.7, 1978 vintage I think. Bought it for £125 so perhaps shouldn't have expected too much. If they wanted to design something to rust, they couldn't have done a better job. Swimming pool in the back footwells, lights that randomly went on and off, leaking seals on the axle, dodgy car, on and on... But it did start every time I asked in the four months I had it, so in that sense perhaps a better car than my FIAT Coupe... Best - IS300, without a doubt, the best £3000 I have ever spent on a car. I so wish I could have afforded one when they were still in production.

The W124 was probably the best built Mercedes for many years. I know that my car cost the first owner £42000 in 1992,so at today's money is probably nearing the 10000 mark. But the build quality was amazing which I think can be sent in the interior shot. With the sunroof and pillar less construction it was the ideal long distance cruiser. My car was factory fitted with a long range 90 litre tank which gave it a range of around 500 miles at 26 Mpg.

I agree with some ofBen01s comments but the rubbish cars I had were all bought brand new so should have been okay. I remember having to replace a rusted through exhaust on my Marina almost immediately after the 12 months warranty expired. The Allegro was a joke. I spent about 2 months of my first 12 months ownership in loan cars. Bear in mind that these cars cost around £1300 brand new which equated to a year's salary so they weren't actually cheap. I have checked a payslip from 1974 when I bought my Marina so know this is accurate. My wife and I have owned cheap cars in the last few years. She currently has a Fiat 500 which is amazingly good for a cheap car. We ran a couple of Ford Fusion diesels which were also totally reliable and comfortable. None of them could be called a 'bad' car. The premise that all bad cars are cheap is far from true. Not that long ago BMW had the 'nikasil' engine issue which particularly affected cars in the North of England where there was more corrosive sulphur in the petrol. The bigger engined BMW Z3's had a nasty habit of pulling diff carriers out of floor pans due to bad design and weak spot welds. Mercedes from the Early noughties were rusting through panels in less than 2 years. I think this shows that some very expensive models are 'bad cars'. Don't ask me about my experience with my late 2014 Mini Cooper which I bought new......

The worst car I had was Renault Laguna (1999-reg), so many electrical issues, from immobiliser and engine management to headlights not working, the problems were intermittent so the garage could not find a fault, was so glad to see the car go! It was my 1st car I bought in UK, about 11-12 years ago! The best so far was BMW e60 525d (2009-reg), I had the car before the GS for 3.5 years and it was one of the most reliable cars I had, nice to drive, comfy, looked good but it was a diesel and rust started appearing on rear arches and it was the moment when I realised the car must go, was a sad day! I think (hope) I can say nice words about the GS, so far I love it, it is quitter, comfier, quicker, better specced than my BMW was, great car! The time will tell! 🙂

Here are pictures of 2 of my favorite cars. This model Z3 was i believe the only version with factory front indcator lights. The rear lights were the same as the Z3M

I passed my test in 1999 at age 21. My first vehicle I bought was a 1995 Daihatsu hi-jet 1litre van. (N87 ENX) Cost me £2,500 of my hard earned savings and £1,100 in insurance. Using it for business as just passed my City and guilds NVQ level 1,2 & 3 in Plumbing and Gas. I hated the way it was blown around in the wind and brakes not great as drum all round. It was 4 years old and only had 28,000 miles on the clock. It failed it's mot as OSR strut leaking and all one assembly. Cost £283.40 inc MOT fee. It was reliable. Sold straight after as insurance gone up 20% even though claim free and sold the van for £1,750. I was glad to see it go! Drove my Nans 1985 Volvo 340GL 1.4 (C159BTA) as a named driver with direct line. Bought for £1100 in Porthleven in Cornwall when lived there for 11 months and sold for £50 as clutch going and getting rusty. Owned 340 for 5-6 years Moving to Normandy France in 2002 to renovate my grandparents holiday home and bought my first car, a 1986 Volvo 740 GLE estate. (D795RJW) Cost me £425 and I really liked it. After 5 years having it cutting out and stalling and garages at a loss. As we had made a profit on buying and renovating a property used the profit to buy a new 2007 Toyota corolla linea techno 1.4 D4D hatchback for 21,500 euros. My grandfather insisted on new. I advised 6-12 months old but wanted new. While waiting 4 weeks for the new car my 740 worked perfect but we had a 2,500 euro trade in which was good. It was French registered, but only worth peanuts in the UK. Liked the abs and aircon and the 50mpg but found it uncomfortable on 2 hour plus journeys and found if window slightly open in rain water dripped onto window switches and seats. We fitted seat covers from day one. No reliability issues. After over 7 years in France 2.5 years with the Corolla we sold the house and car and moved to County Kerry Ireland. Only got 8,000 euros for the LHD corolla at the supplying dealer and it was immaculate and only done 45,000kms. We were looking for a cheap car in the UK and my Sister found a 1989 240 GLT (F912 YOA) automatic for £350 with 8 months mot and done 159,410 miles owned by a disabled couple and partner died who drove. Got on the plane from Dinard to Birmingham, viewed the car and started it up and bought it for the full asking price in late 2009. Have it to this day and for 8 years my only car and daily workhorse. Fantastically reliable but a bit rusty round arches and had welded twice for 50-150. 18 months ago bought a 1996 Volvo 940 SE LPT estate auto which is great and very reliable. P483UWV. Cost £250 but spent 1k on AC and maintenance items. Bought at 184,000 Recently bought a 2006 Lexus IS 220d and so far no issues even though now done 177,000 . Cost £1,475 so my most expensive used car. Completed a 762 mile weeks holiday with no issues last week to the Isle Of Wight. Mot on it on Tuesday. Another AC condenser on order as Condenser leaks. Didn't mean to write an essay but travelled around a bit and as you can see no real bad cars. If I had to choose best for price it would be Volvo 240 and 940. Lexus I use for best as it looks nice. James.