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Hi all, I've been struggling with leaks in my RX400h for some time now and I finally gave up with the self-diagnostics and took it to a leak specialist based in Chelmsford. That's all they do pretty much - fix leaks. I had leaks coming into the boot, down the C pillar in two different places and obviously pooled water was making the rear (and even front) mats wet. By the end of a week of repairs followed by testing, again and again, they found all the leaks - tail light seals, boot seal, roof rails, door cards and a few others. The process is amazing - they run cams into the car, smoke, foam and all sorts and then show you videos of the leaks. The door cards were a real shocker - basically any rain hitting the windows was working it's way onto the wrong side of the door and then (mostly onto the sill and out, but still.. So, I had new door cards made up, all the leaks sealed up and whilst I was at it, the headlights re-polished and re-coated, new number plates, all the stone chips patched up, alloys sorted and finally a clay bar and nano coating..... the car honestly looks brand new now. I waited a month before posting this up to wait for some real rain and use, but it's all good, not a single leak into the bootspace or anywhere else!

Wow that is quite some taxi ! 😂😂 P.Plate going on once plates are made up and DVLA aware. Needs a good scrub inside first. Also I just noticed it's missing it's aux socket in the front centre console.🤯🤯?? Any ideas as to where it could be hiding?

Have done it, the gearbox is much faster in down Gearing, did the flush because off high milage, no problem with gearbox. Before i could drive uphill in low speed in a higher gear and the car start to ratle, no this is not posible since the gearbox will gear down and rise the rpm, wery recomended.

Morning, Just in case anyone is interested 🙂 Just over a month now since I sold my beloved ISF and bought an FK8 Civic Type R so thought I would post a quick things I like, dislike, miss, regret and so on.... Historically, I have been a massive Honda fan which started when I was a kid in the 80's... Senna in a McLaren Honda, the dirt bikes on Streethawk (and Streethawk ofc) and then sat in a Honda NSX in 1989 as a 10 year old at the motor show with my Grandad which sealed the deal... At 21 I bought a 1998 DC2 Integra Type R which started my Honda ownership journey... I replaced the Integra with an S2000 at 25 which went well but didn't handle anywhere near as well as the Integra. The S2000 was replaced by a DC5 Integra Type R which was ace but I sold it to raise funds to move house and swapped it for cash my way plus my friends 1998 DC2 Integra Type R which reaffirmed what a great car the DC2 was (I was too young and not a good enough driver to appreciate my 1st one). Eventually, I went for something different, a Nissan 350Z. I loved the looks and the noise but it wasn't fast enough. It handled well but always felt like it needed another 50 - 100bhp to make it the car it should have been. A baby due meant the time for a bigger car... Queue the BMW 335i M Sport. Great car when it worked. Unfortunately this "Approved Used BMW" spent 11 weeks over the course of 12 months at BMW having turbos, injectors, fuel pumps, waste gates & lambda sensors replaced. Suffice to say, I am weary of BMW's. Went to replace the BMW with... shock horror... an FK2 Honda Civic Type R... Took the Mrs to see it and she wasn't happy... "You can't spend 33k on a Honda" was the response... queue my friend mentioning the Lexus ISF which I hadn't thought about and found one for 22k (I think it was) which the wife said was "much more reasonable" until she found out it was a 5L V8 but deal was done and it was on drive so 1 nil to me. 4 and a bit years and some 50k miles later, I longed for an FK8 Type R (possibly to do with Honda winning in F1 again) and one turned up at the dealer I purchased some of my previous Type R's from. A quick phone call and a socially distanced viewing at my house led to me placing deposit on an FK8 subject to test drive (I had driven one on an extended test drive before lock down so just had to make sure it drove and stopped). Put my ISF up for sale on here and Facebook for a fairly low price which took into account the TLC she needed. A pleasant chap from the Facebook Lexus group was in contact with me from the start and when I mentioned when it was due to go sooner rather than later, he drove down down about 260 miles the following day (in a pimp old school LS400 I might add) and bought my ISF for £200 more than Honda offered me in part-ex which I didn't mind as genuinely wanted it to go to an Lexus fan (he has an SC430 as well). So... Cutting a long story short... Few I like about the FK8 1 - Looks - I know they are subjective but I really like the look of it and always find myself looking at it when it's near 2 - Reaction - Good or bad, it turns heads. 3 - Handling - For a car that is the same size as the ISF (I think it's 5 cm shorter but wider than the ISF) it's a lot lighter and changes direction superbly. The diff is a masterpiece and I know it's a bit of a cliche but it feels more like a 4wd car than a Fwd car with the amount of grip it manages along with how it gets the power down. The adaptive dampers are great as well, comfort for when the wife and kids are in. Sport day to day. R for a track day 4 - Braking - The ISF brakes are great... the FK8 brakes are another level. I have also got the floating discs from the 2020 model to go on it before the annual Ring trip next month 5 - Tech - It's got all the gadgets being a GT. The head unit gets some bad press but using Android Auto it is fine - Spotify and Waze on main screen plus Google Assist works a treat 🙂 6 - Performance - Once moving.... it pulls and pulls and pulls. Not as quick off the line as the ISF but once moving, it is very rapid 7- Seats - They are great and the driving position is perfect. One thing I didn't like in the ISF were the seats. They weren't racy enough for me compared to an M3, RS4 or C63 that it was competing with. 8 - Running Costs - Tax is £150 a year compared with £580 or so, Insurance for me is £200 a year (ISF was 290) and obvious one is MPG (25+ around town and 40+ on motorway) 9 - The rear seats fold down so managed to blag it as being practical with the wife 10 - Best until last... The Gearbox... It's obviously a manual but it is a joy to use. Things I dislike about the FK8 1 - Noise (or lack of). The turbo spool and dump valve noise is quite cool but nothing compared to a V8. Exhaust note is non existent which is disappointing as there are plenty of cool sounding 4 pots out there (i30N, RS Megane, Golf TCR and so on). Exhaust on the shopping list. 2 - Niggles - Luckily under manufacturers warranty but she is going back in soon due to a few faults (all rain related). The auto wipers don't work, when it rains heavily the collision warning sensors can go off and I noticed condensation in one of the side lights by the front. 1st 2 issues are common faults. She was probably built the day they announced Swindon closing 3 - Interior (seats aside) - Not as plush as the Lexus in terms of materials and feels a bit more fragile than my ISF did. Also not sure I am a fan of the digital dash yet compared to some good old dials . Only one cup holder as well.... I am starting to sound old 🙂 4 - Wheels - 20 inch wheels look cool, but you have to avoid potholes like the plague for risk of cracking a rim. May have to invest in some smaller wheels in future 5 - Engine - It looks like a lawnmower (as in the actual engine). Did I mention lack of noise? It sounds like one as well Regrets 1 - Probably let the ISF go for too little money bearing in mind the price they are on AT but still got a fair amount more than WBAC 2 - I wasn't as bowled over on day 1 with the Civic as I was with the ISF but that was probably due to relief from getting away from the BMW. This was cleared up at Thruxton though where the Civic came into it's own 🙂 3 - The RCF - My buddy with an ISF keeps sending me links to RCF's which are now in budget.... I can't return yet surely 😉 Anyhow... it has been an absolute pleasure owning an ISF. I would buy another one in a heartbeat. In fact, a late one is on my list along with the RCF and GSF as things to replace the Type R with 😉

Goodyear are giving up to £100 back in vouchers for buying their tyres at the moment: https://www.goodyear.eu/en_gb/consumer/offers-hub.html I just ordered a couple for my wife's rav4 and should get a £25 amazon voucher back. They have to be from a participating retailer but it looks like there are many, I went with merityre because they're easy and nearby.

I've fitted two aftermarket reversing cameras, one to my MK4 LS400 and one (with great difficulty) to my first LS430, the difficulty was trying to find a way from the boot to the cabin. Apart from that, and on most cars, it's really easy. About £20 for the kit, and the images are excellent.

From the description the issue is quite possibly in the VVTI system. It’s unlikely to be on the inlet side as they are electrically actuated more likely exhaust size which is oil actuated. There are 2 main elements to this on each bank - the oil control valve and the exhaust camshaft phaser / adjuster and either can cause problems. It Intermittently affects the engine timing and power and does not necessarily throw up any engine codes. Power delivery can be much reduced despite engine revving cleanly especially under load going uphill. The oil control valve and the VVT phaser on Toyota engines is known to have issues with sticking operation. The Oil control valves x 2 are very simple to remove and test for resistance and apply 12v to see if they move smoothly and replace if necessary. They are not expensive. The exhaust cam phaser is a bit more involved. It is likely to be one bank of the engine that is affected but I guess you need to figure out which one. It’s possible to either use a garage level scan tool that displays the position of the 4 x camshafts to see if they are in phase or which one is out. Alternatively the output from the cam sensors can be mapped on something like a Pico scope and again you can see if you have an issue. If you have Techstream you can set the vehicle software in diagnostic mode to be more sensitive and to throw an engine code on 1 trip event logic.This might reveal a pending code for you and identify which bank you have an issue with. Good luck - these issues are very hard to pin down. Peter

What are the part codes on your current SD card? Do you fill up with fuel and drive off without paying? We don't allow discussions of theft on these forums.

It is going to be costing £300, that includes a new transmission filter from Lexus, and using proper Toyota WS ATF. I realise this is a bit steep maybe but I bought the car with a budget in mind for things I wanted to do and so I have budgeted for it. Lexus price for an oil and filter change was £440 but I do not think they would be changing all the oil, just replacing what falls out on a drain, I think, don’t know for sure. The guy who is doing it has said basically it is more like a fluid exchange than a flush, new fluid goes in as the old stuff leaves. Like for like. I am getting it done on Monday, so will let you guys know the results. There is pretty much not a problem with shifting at the moment apart from perhaps it is a bit notchy when cold and a bit slow to respond. Getting it done as a bit of prevention and for my own peace of mind really... I know it is a lot money for that but whatever floats your boat eh?!

I have an after market wireless system fitted on the rear of my caravan. The monitor is a clip on internal mirror in my GS450H. It works reasonably well but it is prone to interference the picture breaking up on occasions. This same system can be wired rather than using the transmitter/receiver, and when used in this mode works very well. Make sure the monitor you buy either gives or can be switched to give a mirror image. The Aygo is such a short car with no fire walls to get the wiring through that a wired system is definitely what I will use. Chosing the monitor size is possibly the most difficult part of the exorcise. I think the best position would be in the small centre storage hole in the top of the dash. The 12 volt feed for the monitor, and the camera can be picked up directly from the reversing lights. Choosing a suitable position for the camera is more difficult than at first it seems. A camera fitted on the outside rear of the car will get it's lens dirty very quickly because of the very flat rear of the car. My suggestion would be to fit it inside the tailgate glass somewhere inside the wiper arc using the type of bonding pads used for fitting rear view mirrors to the windscreen. John.

I’m waiting yet again for a response from the company, it probably didn’t help that the 2 samples I sent were very small ( there ain’t much spare TBH) but I did check beforehand that they would be suitable for matching. Depending on what they say and how long it’s going to take ( certainly not another month!) I may send them the seat headrest which is clean and been exposed to UV for 26 years, so the accurate colour hopefully, and try again. I am hoping they will provide another mix free of charge other wise it’s another £30.00. The velour seats from the Celsior have been sold so that option has gone, the final option is custom made and fitted seat covers but I’m trying to avoid spending £800.00 if possible, the roof respray is a £400.00 job (cracking lacquer) and the wheel refurbishment another £320.00. Having said that I would rather invest money in the one I have knowing it owes me nothing over 14 years of ownership plus with all the bonuses, standby payments and overtime at the moment I have little else to spend the money on. At least I can still use it as a 3 seater limo, the other half quite likes sitting in the rear with the extra legroom 😀

All fitted all good.

This is what the manual says. (This is on page 486 though you may have a different version) You can register desired contacts to enable the speech command system. Up to 50 contacts per phone can be registered. Go to “Voice tags”: “MENU” button  “Setup”  “Telephone”  “Contact/call history settings”  “Voice tag”  “New” or “Edit” Select the desired contact. Move the controller to the left and then select “REC”. Say the registered voice tag. To play the registered voice, select “Play”.

no odometer .... she might have been a taxi and covered 300k miles in those first 3 years before the small mileage odometer fitted Malc

Ah! that's great I'll check the glove box and the virtualbox too, thanks ever so much. I'll get a few photos as well. Ideally not showing the bubbling on the alloys. I think it's going to be a while before the semi-gamification of balancing the self-charging with running on the hybrid batteries and keeping to around 30MPG (BMW same age nearer 15MPG around town) wears off. I can't imagine what it would have been like having this in 2007, something from the future then I am sure. I know it's not exactly a Telsa Model X, but that was 8 years away.

Mine aren't, mine is the same size all round Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hello Raymond and welcome to the club. We love to see photos so get some of your new beastie on when you can. Taking your last point first, if you don't want to mess about with trying to get it working in Win 10 (took me a couple of hours of trying but got there in the end) just download VirtualBox from here https://www.virtualbox.org/ and install Win XP or Win 7 in that. I've got a spare copy of 7 with genuine licence key that you can have if you need it. The key for the locking wheel nuts is usually in the glove box but could be in the tool cubby hole under the boot floor. No idea about transponders I'm afraid.

🤭

I'm sure we would love to know how much it cost, but just as it's rude to ask a woman her age......

My personal preference are Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen 2 but you'll see quite a few also like Michelin Cross Climates. Both brands have offers on at the moment, here's the Goodyear one https://www.goodyear.eu/en_gb/consumer/offers-hub.html?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks

I don't believe so. You either need to purchase the quarter panel and cut off the bit you need, or fabricate from sheet steel.

Super result! And, to be fair, at £65 from Toyota/Lexus that's darned good value, Normally its that price for the turned Bakelite insert that fits inside the second level of the Mickey Mouse rubber flapper valve actuator for the self-dimming cup holders

All Lexus wheels corrode, it won't affect the MOT.

Particularly tartan 😃

I read it as £700 for 3 services Gang.

I had that one. Did all sorts and finally cured it but was never quite sure which fix or combination of fixes did it!

Hi - are we allowed to post company names on here? If so, the firm was New Again in Chelmsford. Roy, I started with the 28-point check which was £125 and then you basically decide where you want to go from there. It's mainly labour charges that you are paying for and obviously each car will be different. I had so many leaks that it took a long time to identify, rectify and wait for re-testing. I already had in my mind that I plan to keep this car for another 5 years, so I figured I'd get everything done properly, including cosmetics. Labour charges seem to come in around £45/hour on my invoice. Here are some pics of just one of the worst leaks before I took it in as it was starting to get quite silly.

Very clean MOT History. Curious why "no Odometer" in the 2010 test. Could it be a replaced Cluster or what? Hope it lives up to everything you expect. Seeing Doc Martin in his, makes me envious!

To be honest if the others aren't leaking I wouldn't mess with them. Why fix something that isnt broken right? However need to address the leaky one with the seal kit. Its very hit and miss when taking off tyre valves and reusing (like metal ones) sometimes you get away with it sealing again (like you have with the 3) and unlucky on the 4th. thats my 2p anyway

Have a look on the door pillars, on UK models there is a table with the VIN and the axle weights and all up train weight.

I'll second that - straight pipe is the way to go. I take my car to my local Toyota dealer for servicing and they told me that they have had about 20-30 cat thefts from Toyotas, mostly Prius's but also Auris.... and I live over 200 miles away from London ! I preempted my theft and had the cat removed before some thief took it - it's now on my garage shelf and can be re-fitted in a few minutes if required...

Very pleased for you Lex. Can you indicate their leak seeking charges please ?

Peter, see this; Manual sc430 Hi RoR Lawler999 has the 2003 manual in pdf for dropbox download for a small donation to the homeless charity he volunteers at . if you would like to pass it on Cheers nick

Hi Fola, I went through this too. If you fit you a new cat, you need to garage your car. They know where you are now and they'll just come back. You may as well put an envelope with £500 outside your house. I went with a straight pipe in the end and it's running fine and been through an MOT with a Lexus specialist in NW London. If you go this route, the other points are correct - you have manifold cats on each side of the engine up front and this is a secondary cat. And hybrids are not tested for emissions. There is a technical requirement though for the car to not me modified to pass MOT, but this doesn't seem to be enforced. What else can you do anyway? I think this is the right thing to do to prevent this crime going on.

Hi Royoftherovers, Purchased the vehicle from a chap called Mark (MK cars & Bikes) a small family outfit, who took it as a P/X. The number plates have 'BCA' on them, so I'm sure at some point it was at auction....or a lexus main dealer could have moved it on that way...we shall see! Looking forward to a full sized barge to waft myself and the family along! Bar some significant wheel corrosion and the passenger window blind, it looks in good order. Control arm bushings look as though they have been replaced...although no record of it....and a good service history at Lexus, although not complete... Will drop photos of the silver beauty as soon as she's cleaned up! Good eve,

What would be funny is if this one is off the exact same car when the seller says he sold the car without it 😀

It has arrived although their van tracker showed the van 20 miles away.

So, you've not had anything delivered by Yodel then? Parcelfarce waste time by making themselves jump over a vast number of bureaucratic hurdles and then charge you for the privilege. Yodel don't but their attitude towards deliveries seems to be "when we can be bothered, oh and don't expect it to be intact when it arrives"

Hi Zuke. I've not worked at Getrag. I'm in Rochdale now well 2.5 yrs. When you do your trans fluid job may I suggest you put a 250ml bottle of ZX1. Ive been using that for 30 yrs + and before I took my 250 home I put a bottle in the engine oil. Ill probably do a trans fluid job on mine and will definitely put it in mine.

My 2015 RCF and 2020 RCF Track Edition

Please don’t get the IS220 with your expected usage profile!

IS250 auto over any Lexus diesel especially for short, stop start journeys. Your diesel will get killed by journeys such as those. DPF will get blocked in double quick time. What about a rX400h or a CT20foh..both hybrids an bullet proof...the RX 400h especially. Or maybe even a Toyota Prius.....CT200h is just a tarted up Prius. I have an IS250 and it's great but it's best as a long distance cruiser. The RX400h being hybrid is probably the best of both worlds. Just my thoughts

Did you check under the seats for any snakes? 🐍

Cairngorms in between Grantown-on-Spey and Aviemore, heading back home after visiting my kids whom I hadn’t seen since lockdown...extremely pleasurable 614ml trip on Monday just gone

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-Lexus-SC-430-Repair-Shop-Manual-Original-Set-New-SC430-FEO-Service-2-Volume-/401599800024

Just your casual trip to Tescos. Needs to be ceramic coated but applied Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Wet Wax.

Ready for a day trip to Cornwall

Update: I've been a bit slacking on here, so anyway. I've installed the new exhaust (HKS Hi-Power) a couple months ago and I've also put coilovers (TEIN FLEX Z) on the car a few weeks ago. Exhaust was a very very easy to install. Nothing special, just pop the hangers off, undo a few bolts, job done. Now coilovers. There were all pretty easy to do it, just a matter of WD40 and undoing bolts here and there. However, the rear left bolts that goes through the shock & lca was rusted in so bad I couldn't remove it. I ended up cutting it and putting a new bolt in. FIY, the bolt is M14 and around 80mm long.. I couldn't believe how difficult it was to find it. I ended up buying it online for £7 as B&Q, Screwfix and Toolstation had only M12 or M16 as alternatives... I needed my car, so I just put an M12 through it that I got from B&Q as I didn't have any other option, but it's all good now. The car is now sitting about 60mm front and 50mm rear lower than stock. The ride is actually more comfortably than on stock shocks, although the stock suspension was 135k miles old and tired. Here's a pic of the clearance on the front on full lock with 18x9.5 ET38 wheels. It looks fine, but it does rub on full lock when there are two people in the car. Only an issue when parking, and not a big deal at all. It just catches the arch liner, so no damage. Here's a few pics of how the car sits now. Also had to test the diff. The stock suspension had so much travel the diff just wouldn't lock, whereas now the rear end is a lot stiffer, the little Torsen LSD engages a lot better 🙂 Apologies for the poor choice of location, but it was convenient and nobody was around as this McDonald's is still closed now due to lockdown.

A few updates from me. Just back from the detailers. Also painted my calipers and 15mm spacers all round. Well pleased with how it’s looking now.

Thanks for all the comments. Really useful to find out that other people have had similar problems. As a result I decided to tackle the two 10p sized bubbles on the nearside sill. The corrosion had spread under the stone chip paint, and I ended up with a 7cm long hole in the bottom of the sill. Fortunately the damage was quite localised, and the rest of the sill appeared sound. The hole was big enough for me to investigate inside. It seems that there is a design problem, with any moisture in the sill or in the C-post behind the rear door collecting in this area, with no obvious drain hole. The problem is made worse because I park on a slope, with the rear of the car lower than the front. It also appears that there is inadequate rustproofing in this area, with little if any wax inside this part of the sill. There is wax further towards the front of the car, and I think that when the car was manufactured the wax was injected through the hole sealed with a rubber plug below the front edge of the front door. So the wax may not have reached the rear of the sill. (There is another rubber plug inside the rear wheel arch (hidden behind the rubber dirt shield) but this appears to give access to another box section, which is an inner upper sill rather than the lower outer sill.) My local bodyshop welded up the sill and painted it for £200. They reported that the damage was very localised, and the rest of the sill was sound. My first spend on the car in 14 years apart from routine maintenance - amazing! I then rustproofed the area (see below). So - here are my recommendations for IS200 owners. 1 - inspect the rear of the sills for signs of rust bubbling under the paint. Look about 10 cm in front of the rear wheel arch. 2 - if you find any bubbling, don't touch it until you have checked your anti-corrosion warranty. Mine had a 6-year warranty, but someone on this website said they thought they had a 12-year warranty. If you are covered, take it to your local Lexus dealer for inspection. If you do investigate it yourself you may invalidate any warranty. 3 - if you are not covered and you have more than minor bubbling, the sill may be corroded and need welding. It may still get through the MOT because the stone chip paint masks the extent of the corrosion. But the area is close to the rear jacking point. 4 - I would recommend ALL IS200 owners rustproof this area, either after welding or for prevention. I drilled two holes in the bottom of the sill about 50cm apart (can be done with the car jacked up and supported), and also used the hole with a rubber plug below the front of the sill. Drill the holes just outside the flange. No point in drilling the other side of the flange as well, because it is the same box section. I used Dynax rust treatment, because it comes in a 750ml jumbo aerosol with a 60cm probe to get into box sections. Dynax came out well in a survey a few years ago, and I have used it a lot on my classic car. The probe makes it much easier to apply than Waxoyl, and the fluid seems to be more effective. While you are at it, lift the spare wheel cover in the boot, remove the rubber plugs in the bottom of the wells behind the rear wheels, and spray the area with Dynax. It took me less than an hour to treat both sills, bot a bad investment to extend the life of an amazingly reliable car.