Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


Leaderboard

  1. Big Rat

    Big Rat

    Established Member


    • Points

      7

    • Posts

      4,732


  2. royoftherovers

    royoftherovers

    Established Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      10,874


  3. PCM

    PCM

    Established Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      2,519


  4. shanra

    shanra

    Established Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      317


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/2017 in all areas

  1. Agree that it may be cheaper to fix things, if its an electrical issue or an issue with the compressor then I'm good. If the issue is with one of the air struts then it could well be time for a change. The car is level at present but is locked in the normal position. The compressor fires at start up then turns off and the flashing "OFF" starts so I think it is more a compressor or sensor issue but until I get the error codes I'm keeping my options open. I've got a 100 mile journey on Monday to a very posh office to train an important customer and at present I'm turning up in my 1997 black and rust Bongo camper van..... I'll give it a wash and hide the kids scooters.
    2 points
  2. I have never used the parking brake on all my 3 Lexus's - I do however apply the break once in a while just to keep the parts moving - same as the air suspension - i flick ii every say often to prevent things from seizing up
    2 points
  3. I replaced my handbrake shoes on my LS400 the mileage was 196,000, but the reason was it was part of the mechanism that had seized also the retaining pins had almost rusted through. The previous owner told me he never used the handbrake so as to save it. I never understood how that would save it and because it's a safety feature it has to pass an MOT so surely it's better to use it and keep all parts moving! I bought pattern parts and they did the job as well as they should, it's worth getting the whole kit not just the shoes.
    2 points
  4. Hi Mark You we're not present when the 'Last Of the Summer wine 3 ' met for coffee and cake - when they were supposed to be at work - so @Big Rat and @Flytvr and @Mark G came to pretty much the same conclusion. Not that it was easy to hear what each other was saying as 'down town Detroit ' (Chippenham ) was alive with the sound of gunfire 😬 We love you really Mark ! Big Rat
    2 points
  5. If your like me, the best part about owning a Lexus is the nice toys and technology that Lexus offer. I've recently swapped my IS220D SE-L for a IS250 SE, The SE-L was fitted with the illuminated door sills that light up "Lexus" when you open the doors, a really nice feature which should be standard in my opinion. Unfortunately my 250 SE only had the basic plastic sills that look a bit cheap on a Luxury car so i pulled off the plastic ones to find that the cars are fitted as standard with the plug for the illuminated sills, so I thought I could just buy the illuminated sills and plug them in. Unfortunately it turned out that this is not the case, all the cars do indeed have the plug however the plug is only wired in on the Luxury and sports spec models, to get around this problem you need to do some basic home wiring which I will show you now. Please note: I take no responsibility for any damage done to your vehicle while following this guide. For this modification you will need the following: 1-2M of Auto Wire 4x Scotch Locks A Pair of Bull Nose Pliers A Pair of Snips Stanley Knife/Craft knife Step 1: Remove the existing door sills to reveal the wiring loom underneath ( A bit of brute force pulling straight up will remove the sills) Step 2: Using a Stanley Knife or Craft knife, carefully cut away the electrical tape that covers the wires that go into the door sill connector (Be particularly careful not to cut into any wires in the loom). Step 3: Take your Auto Wire and 1 scotch lock and Scotch lock your auto wire and the White wire going into the Door Sill Connector together (Leave the blue wire as it is). Step 4: Remove the interior trim that covers the seat belt tensioner system (to aid this process put the seat in the fully back position and the backrest all the way back, and open the rear door. Again some force will release the clips holding the panel on). Step 5: Locate the wire that connects to the Door switch, it sits on the inside of the pillar behind the switch. (A White Wire on the drivers side and Purple on the Passengers side, shown in the image above). Step 6: Trace your auto wire around the current loom to reach the Door Switch wire behind the seat belt panel. (when doing this ensure that your auto wire cannot rub on the seat belt as it moves back and forth during use). Step 7: Take a Scotch lock and scotch lock the Door Switch wire and auto wire together (Ensure you don't short out the wire on the vehicle's body work while using metal tools. I also wrapped some electrical tape around the scotch lock to ensure nothing metal would contact the bodywork in the future). Step 8: Plug in your illuminated door sills to ensure they are working correctly, when you push the Door switch the Sills should shut off and then light up when the switch is released. (If your Sills don't light up please check to see if you have your interior light switch set to come on when the doors open). Step 9: When you are happy that everything is working correctly, push the interior trim panels back into place. Some pressure on the areas should clip everything back in to place. Finished Product. I hope this guide was helpful, if i've missed anything or you have any questions please post here and I will endeavour to help the best I can.
    1 point
  6. Sure it's been covered a few times and believe me I've tried to find it on here! That annoying DI pump ticking that once you hear it...it's all you hear. Did some digging here and on a US site then spoke to my friendly Toyota garage about getting some sound dampening covers ordered in. Ordered up parts 12606-38010 & 12605-38010 (two halves of the cover) for £33 and voila...50% reduction in the tick noise. Dead simple. Main engine cover off, and both ends of the air intake (jubillee type bands) to get a bit of space & light. NOT easy to squeeze a hand in the back and seat it in the right place and a little bit of plastic surgery (snip..snip) on the front half to get it to go past the fixing bolts..and that's that. Next thing - wait for the warm weather to solve the the freezing cold piston slap / knock...like a sewing machine for the first 10mins in the morning...most embarrassing.
    1 point
  7. If some previous owner stole the flashlight then get one of these, yes it's a bit bigger and won't fit where the penlight went and you will have to be careful you don't point it upwards when you use it or planes will start crashing...!!! https://www.aldi.co.uk/lightway-multifunction-led-torch/p/074664098046200 For a fiver it is superb value... two magnets on the swivel handle, another on the body of it, a hook as well, two stage main light and a little flash light in the top... even comes with batteries, so if you are passing Aldi, drop in...
    1 point
  8. https://www.autogespot.com/lexus/is-f/spots/55 Found this site on a Dutch car forum it's pretty self explanatory what they are about. But one aspect I found fascinating is the CAR SPOT PAGE. Basically people photograph a particular model of car upload the picture to the site with time-date-place. It covers the whole of Western Europe going back many years. With some uk cars pictured abroad as well I entered Lexus IS-F and it threw up no less than 55 pages with 20 cars per page. You can even see the drivers faces on some. I have found my car on a previous private plate parked in the car park of a Casino in Monaco in 2010 😂😂😂 I have looked all the pages but I have also seen @Flytvr car as well prior to him owning it. (Page 16) Go on guys give it a go you might find yours ! What I forgot to mention is if you click on the picture that interests you some have many extra shots, and occasionally it's very good photography. Big Rat
    1 point
  9. Decent magazine, some of the content is a little OTT for my liking but the era is mine and I can relate to a lot of the owners cars they feature.
    1 point
  10. Yep you are right that's it the one I had in mind was the ' lemar' car from a previous post of mind. Its now become my fav colour but do not tell anyone else on here 😂 Big Rat
    1 point
  11. Sorry but the one I have has a different number on it
    1 point
  12. You and John better keep clear of the latest Scrabble dictionary as you'll have kittens LOL ...(er thats Laughing out Loud for you John)
    1 point
  13. Remember looking at this one on the tube typical stupid tube comments concentrating on the car testers fashion clothing sense or lack there of. I think the Americans can come from a slightly different perspective at times with cars like these for a number of reasons i.e. Fuel costs being the main one ! I think the car close to you has to be worth a look it's the only way you are going to get a feel for the model of car it's all about condition how they drive, then look at the all the obvious things like mileage service history, checkable history not just the stamps. If it's a IS-F you want, sounds like your still not quite sure, there are more knowledgeable ones on here than I, the GS-F is of course a great car as well but obviously costs considerably more 🤔 Big Rat
    1 point
  14. http://www.soarerworld.com/forum/showthread.php?31813-Soarer-auto-gearbox-faults-and-fixes This may help
    1 point
  15. I think i might have one. A mk3 gs300 of mine sometime ago was wrote off and i have some stuff still and I think i have what your looking for. Ill take a look in abit
    1 point
  16. What do you guys think to the review of the ISF? Do you feel it was a fair appraisal of the car? I am very tempted by the £14.5k car and it's literally round the corner from me, I can walk to the place the photo's were taken in ten minutes, but I would love a GS F when the price inevitably comes down a bit more. First world problems eh.......
    1 point
  17. Brian, I'm not sure that the electrical handbrake on the 460 does cause more stress on components. The handbrake has an 'AUTO' selection which I always use. This means that, every time the gear lever is set to 'PARK', the handbrake is applied but, when you select away from 'P', the handbrake is released and the car is held stationary by the auto box or by holding your foot on the brake. There is also a 'Brake Hold' facility which, when selected, automatically applies the handbrake when the car comes to a stop.......and releases when the accelerator is pressed. This is possible because both the brakes and accelerator are electronic. The 'Brake Hold' facility is great in traffic queues - you don't need to sit with your foot on the brake pedal. Of course, I could be wrong.
    1 point
  18. I've asked my Lexus dealer about that before and they said the warranty could continue to be extended past 10 years/100k. I've no idea whether the cost just jumps straight up. I'm not sure whether that's changed since but I've just extended my 2008 car warranty to 2019.
    1 point
  19. Thanks! I tried the urban dictionary, but no joy. I am not a grammatical zealot, but I do take your point. "Could of, should of "are common errors but as long as people know what the meaning is meant to be, then that is the main thing. Spelling errors are common on the BBC website - typos mainly, as they are under pressure to get content out quickly and no longer have time to proof-read their work. I still feel it is a shame that we judge people too readily by their written English. Note that I used the correct too!
    1 point
  20. I think it's difficult to judge prices at the moment because there aren't many selling and prices could be artificially high. Cheapest one is the silver at 14.5k with 89,000 miles, seems like a good buy but it's still not gone.... The 2012 ones at 31/32k, seems high if you can buy an RCF for 36k on a 2016 plate.
    1 point
  21. Hi, Since I've had my IS, the footbrake if left parked up for more than say 24hours has "stuck" on. You release it and the car doesn't creep forward, then it "pops" off when pressing the accelerator. is this the same for everyone else, or should i ask it too be looked at next time it goes in for service. It's definitely worse when wet, and seems to be getting worse now the car is 18 months old, or it might just be I'm more conscious of it now (and its winter). Many Thanks, Darren.
    1 point
  22. No one knows the reasons, we can only speculate as to why this sort of thing happens in main dealerships but it does. Servicing departments have their own budgets, they have targets to meet and managers and staff will be under pressure to meet those targets I assume. That aside and more importantly for the OP, unless the dealer can come back with a proper diagnosis then the OP would have lost all trust in that particular dealership.
    1 point
  23. Thanks Steve, that's good news then, it seems the DSG type auto boxes are suffering with high mileage. I have heard a few horror stories about Audi/VW auto gearbox failures
    1 point
  24. Same here... I use it on a hill, give it the occasional on/off, on my RX just to keep it going...
    1 point
  25. I wasn't particularly impressed with blueprint discs and pads - discs needed replaced after 20k, but started to cause wheel wobble when light braking at 10k, and pads squealed and sprayed dust, so replaced with pagid discs and ferodo pads. Rear replaced with all pagid components and are fine. Pete
    1 point
  26. Maybe so, but that type of equipment is only as good as the person operating it, and they still seem to employ a load of kids.
    1 point
  27. Mark, I got out of a Range Rover as I was getting fed up with lots to do... Hopefully when the 460 is sorted I can just polish it now and again... Lots of other things on this year so trying to get less busy...!!!
    1 point
  28. I have just replaced the rear discs, pads, and break shoes on my GS450H. I replaced the discs because of rust. They would have resurfaced easily there being no ware lip. However I was able to buy a pair of Quinton Hazel rear discs for £20. EBC break pads for £20, and Mintex rear shoes for £18. The rear shoes were worn to about 2mm due to rust inside the drums acting as an abrasive. The new shoes only have about 4 mm of thickness to start with. I could have used the old shoes, but by the time they had bedded in on the new drums there would not have been much lining left. I have never had a problem with any of the well known branded discs. The choice of pads is subjective depending on the way the car is driven, and your expectations on pad ware disc ware, dust, noise, and pedal feel. Again sticking to known branded products should not give problems. Some of the cheap unheard of brand pads can be very bad bordering on dangerous. My preference is for the pads to ware giving long disc life, but I am not heavy on brakes. John.
    1 point
  29. Love my CCTV. Streams to the cloud. I do also have CCTV signs to keep it all 'correct'
    1 point
  30. I bought a cheap ish system about a year ago , think it was about £160 from amazon on a deal of the day thing. 4 x cameras 720p , 1tb dvr and the payed an alarm fitter to fit them which cost me £80. It works perfect for what i need , motion capture , you can export it easily to memory stick , it can be wired to a network if needed .Runs about 10 days on the highest quality setting , you can always put a bigger hdd in it. Quality good enough i think.
    1 point
  31. A couple of members on Pistonheads had a similar experience in Northampton area, I must admit I am thinking of cameras myself, interesting to hear what other people are using.
    1 point
  32. Been meaning to get myself some PoE cameras too. I plan to wire them into my home network, and record video on a PC I always leave running (media server). Fitted some HomeMonitor Y-Cam cameras for my parents. They have WiFi / PoE and dont need a recorder. They stream everything to the cloud and you can view them anytime from your phone (via an app) or online. I'd recommend the dome type cameras, bullet ones i've fitted need dusting weekly to keep them clear from cobwebs! Think little spiders are attracted by the warmth!
    1 point
  33. I've got Netgear Arlo which is available on Amazon etc. It's very easy to set up, runs on batteries which last quite a while. This will give you a quick visual deterrent. I would say that this system doesn't give constant streaming but motion sensor recording and will email you with any movement and store any activity on the online cloud. You can log on from your phone at anytime. Hard wired systems will give you 24/7 recording options and the kit will be cheaper but you will need to allow for the additional installation cost/wiring etc.
    1 point
  34. That's fairly normal nowadays with the disc and pad materials. Any moisture at all will cause rust to stick the pad to the disc. Next time you wash your car, just have a look at the speed surface rust shows up on the discs, it can take as little as half an hour.. luckily the rust is cleaned off within a couple of brake application.
    1 point
  35. At my local Tesco in North London (Friern Barnet) might be worth checking your local stores
    1 point
  36. This is caused by the Pre-Crash Safety collision avoidance system warning you that you are approaching an obstacle in front of the car at too high a speed and not braking. Page 310 of the manual refers. You can change the warning sensitivity and I have mine on the middle setting which prevents most red alerts. I have had it flash when accelerating to overtake another car.
    1 point
  37. Yes, that's how I did it too. Pretty much invisible and NO damage to the trim.
    1 point
  38. On Saturday I fitted a dash cam to my 2010 RX450 , I didn't hardwire it, I just used the 12v socket hidden away under the armrest (bloody silly place to have your sockets BTW) I just fed the wire under the passenger mat and teased the cable around the door trim. At the a pillar I managed to open it slightly without removing it and am very pleased with the results. My model is the SEi and I note some models had a 12v outlet in the storage area under the gear lever which would have been even neater. Hope this helps. Ed
    1 point
  39. Thanks Steve - that worked. first it made all the other windows functional but only from their own switches (and not on auto). so I did the reset on each window and eventually control came back to the driver door switch (I think I had to do another 5 second push though to complete it). And I have no little lights illuminated on any of the switches (tried putting the headlights on but no luck) Thanks anyway - very useable now. Is this documented in the manual and I just missed it? Mike
    1 point
  40. could potentially be the bush in this listing.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-IS220D-IS250-IS350-ISF-05-FRONT-BOTTOM-LOWER-WISHBONE-CONTROL-ARM-BUSH-x1-/181457878538?hash=item2a3fbb7e0a:g:G6QAAOSwDk5Tt-qU When the equivalent bush on my old GS was going home, it was most evident on full lock.
    1 point
  41. Yes dipped beams are LED's whereas the high beams are halogen Go on Menu > setup > vehicle > vehicle customisation > Light settings The sensitivity should be there, just hit minus a few times and then save it.
    1 point
  42. £1095 is actually pretty good for 2 years warranty. £547.50 per year, and that includes top level AA cover which is about £150 on its own every year. Compared to what I have seen other manufacturers charge for their extended warranties, the Lexus one is a bargain. The inspection is free, and you don't have to buy the warranty to get it done.
    1 point
  43. I am going to have to disagree slightly with John here. The other option is to buy from a trader/private, then buy a Extended Lexus warranty. It would cost you an additional £1095 for two years cover, but you would probably save that by not buying from a main dealer. Obviously if you have the visual safety inspection done which is required for the warranty and they find something wrong, you are going to find it difficult to get anything out of a private seller. What I did with mine was buy it from a car dealer which offered a warranty, and then drove it straight to the Lexus dealer to buy a Extended Warranty. If the Lexus dealer had found a problem, I would have used the warranty the dealer offered to fix it. As it turned out, the car was fine and has been covered by the Lexus Warranty since. I also don't necessarily agree with the what you don't have cannot go wrong philosophy. Being a luxury car, I love all the toys on my SE-L, which have been perfectly reliable so far.
    1 point
  44. Yes Jamie.Emboldend text applies to all/any cars purchased privately. You could ask on this Forum if any member has one(Lexus) to sell ,or knows of one? My advice would be to go to a Lexus Dealer to buy and do not seek a vehicle which "has lots of bells and whistles" Even a basic Lexus is well equipped. What you do not have cannot go wrong! Do not rush into a purchase, the new reg is coming soon and more pre-owned cars will come onto the market. If you seek to buy from a non Lexus Dealer, then try to ensure that the Trader/Dealer has had good reviews as there are a lot of sharks out there who are simply after your money. Regards John
    1 point
  45. Many thanks Jamie. I apologise if I am telling you something you already know, but; If you buy from an Official Lexus Dealer, then you will probably receive a free 12 month fairly comprenensive warranty, at the end of which ,assuming that your car is not then more than 10 years old or has covered more than 140,000 miles you currently have the opportunity to purchase an Official Lexus Extended 2 year Warranty which will cover most things (but not wear and tear items) and which will include the Hybrid Battery.This could take your car to say, 12 years old and 160,000 miles. If you buy from a Dealer/Trader, he will give you some kind of warranty,which in practice not be worth a great deal and will not cover any defects which were present when you bought the car from him. The Dealer/Trader is however required to honour a Statutory Warranty which under the Sale Of Goods Act as amended by the Consumer Rights Act 2015 requires him to fix at his cost any significant defect which occurs within 6 months of purchase or was present or occurring at the point of sale. In the event of you buying from such Dealer/Trader I would advise you to take your new purchase to the nearest Lexus Dealer and ask them to examine the vehicle, state in writing such defects as are apparent to them.You can then return to the Dealer/Trader and request that he fix them at his cost. If you purchase from a Private Seller, then you must take along someone who can assist you to be satisfied that the vehicle is not "a lemon." The Private Seller is unlikely to be in any position to provide you with any kind of warranty, so you will be very much on your own in the event of having to spend money on repairs. Unless, of course you can prove that the seller mislead you and concealed from you defects of which he was aware,but did not disclose to you. A minefield that is !! Jamie, I hope that you find the above useful and once again I apologise "if I`m trying teach you to suck eggs." I wish you well in your venture to find a suitable Lexus and do hope that you will keep us all informed of your progress. Regards John
    1 point
  46. This is my colour combination,
    1 point
  47. It does indeed, but it's much more fun when it happens to someone else!
    1 point
  48. It happens to the best of us. Don't you just love an easy fix!
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...