Leaderboard

I’ve owned my 2014 300h for about a month now, celestial black SE with 16” wheels, premium nav and black interior. Whilst it’s almost poverty spec it was exactly what I wanted. Bought it with 58,000 on it, ex fleet car so it comes with its own host of ex fleet war wounds, many of which I’ve already taken car of. The car First thing when I got it home was a good wash and polish, that’s when I discovered it was metallic rather than normal black, that was a pleasant bonus. The Prius was the 300h’s predecessor, and from a reliability pilot of view a very difficult car to replace, 130,000 miles in 26 months and not one mechanical failure. Now I wanted 16” wheels because of ride comfort, free road tax and cheaper tyres, this will be used as a taxi so like the Prius will be doing serious mileage, as it stands I’ve done just shy of 4000 miles in 5 weeks so far and have been very impressed. First job, mats, something just to set the interior off a little Then I have to take car of some marks on the interior, these panels were badly scratched so out came the piano black vinyl. Next it was the two way radio and data head. I hate having things on the windscreen, and I wanted this to be as discreet as possible The data head is my meter but also all my job info comes through this. After that, wind deflectors, I’ve had to grind down one of the faces of the deflector on the drivers side as it was causing the window to drag too much. The only other thing fitted was a nextbase cctv camera, I decided to use the hardware kit that was supplied, it was dead easy to fit, took about 30 mins to fit. That was all within a few days of getting the car, the plan was to run the car, find out what needs doing mechanically and set about adding my own touches along the way. First job this week was mudflaps. The Lexus has soft paint and I knew that in a short space of time the mudflaps would rub the paint away in those areas where contact takes place, so I made up some paintwork protectors out of clear vinyl I had in the garage You can’t see the protector very well but it runs parallel with the profile of the mudflaps. Still have the rears to do, that will be the weekend. So jobs to do very soon 60k service Transmission oil Rear axle oil Discs and pads all round Egr cooler cleaned tinted rear windows And then there’s the modification I would like to do....but those I’m still investigating Updates to follow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gents

Out of interest... is Lexus aimed at people named Lee?? (looking at this thread) 😄

Hey Guys, They got back to me and confirmed that my is250 auto will not have to pay the charge. Thanks for all your help.

Very difficult to meet criteria on this one. F Just about in this photo, and I guarantee it was at speed!

Rayaans, tell them you have no intention of paying any money. It's not your fault. If your insurance company doesn't pursue the other driver's insurance they might have to pay themselves (I'm assuming you're Fully Comp) which they won't want to do. In the past two years, my car has been hit twice whilst parked in car parks. I simply refused to pay up front. Your insurance company should be working for YOU. You're the customer, tell them what YOU want.

Surprised to find a largely favourable review on the TG website which I assumed would be the usual understeer, oversteer, power tosh. And I quote: Should I buy one? This is a moment for you to consider what driving you really do, rather than what you would like to do, but don’t. While TG will go to its grave defending your right to having a drift-worthy V8 that consumes tyres and petrol in equal measure, there are some of us who just want or need to get somewhere in the least stressful way possible. Often with luggage and passengers. For those people, cars like the Volvo S90 and now the new Lexus ES are not just a sensible choice, but the correct one. The new Peugeot 508 also treads its own path by all accounts, wilfully different form the usual (Germanic) suspects. Perhaps there's finally the start of seismic shift in the motoring press, from baseball cap to cardigan? I won't hold my breath though!

I recently had To have all four wheels removed and then tyres off because all four Aluminium dust caps were well and truly siezed on the stems and I could not confirm tyre pressures, they were hexagonal in shape and even using a 10mm socket and Mole grips on the rubber valve stem they weren't coming off! £40 later I have four new stems with bog standard black plastic caps I can remove with just fingers. paul m.

Stretching it a bit, but how about one from The Festival of Speed?

...but was that movement pushing from the rear or pulling from the front... or was it pushing from the front? (at this point I don't even know if this is still funny or what..)

Rayaan be aware although your no claims discount is protected the premium you pay is not. This means your insurer "can" still raise the price of your premium, and give you your discount off the new figure. Very clever or devious depending on how you look at it on behalf of insurers. John.

I buy MiniDisc players. And I don't even drink.

Quite. The number of times you see someone attempt to drive into a space and you think "This'll end in tears". They'll end up either three miles from the kerb, halfway into your living room, still be maneuvering this time next week or end up giving up and driving off.

They've taken photos and will send them off to the warranty department to get claim agreed. Probably a few days after that before they get parts.

Car's been to Lexus Coventry. Turns out both sides are leaking! Got told that a few RC's have been affected and another model in their range. One only had 2,000 miles on it. Waiting to hear what happens next.

This is becoming more complicated than it should be. Firstly. you're not at fault in any way. You have the Drivers name and the vehicle registration. You've notified your insurance company and given them the details of the accident. It's now up to them to find the other drivers insurance and tell them of your claim. Take your car to a repairer of your choice (not theirs). The other driver's insurance company will send an assessor and hopefully approve the amount and the claim. There is no reason to pay any excess you have on your policy, you're not claiming on your policy, you're claiming on his. Your no claim bonus will not be affected but your premium will rise (seemingly if you claim on any policy you will probably claim again; so they say) Good luck, this should not cost you a penny in any way, shape or form (apart from the increased premium) Graham.

I once bought a sports suspension package for a Honda Accord 2.4 Tourer, only problem was I didn't actually have the car, just planned on buying one next. Of course it never happened. Luckily I bought cheap, it was Ebay and managed to cover my losses, not my embarrassment !

Thanks to Mr Funex for his recent contribution to the "Silver Lexus ISF Carbon" project! Sale agreed, paid for, delivered, clear coated and fitted within 4 days. Thanks mate! P.S. what looks like scratches at the near edge is just reflections and a shi##y blackberry camera.... It's mint! #Keepitinthecommunity

I had the message "System fault" with flashing tyre, and red exclamation mark appear today. Checking with Techstream produced D3 tyre sensor faulty with it's code number. The other three tyre pressures, and temperatures were shown, but this does not tell you which wheel the problem is on. With Techstream still connected I lowered the tyre pressures in each tyre noting which pressure altered (D1, D2, --, D4) marking the wheels accordingly. The tyre with the suspect transmitter was the rear NS. I had the transmitter removed by my local friendly tyre dealer, and a rubber valve put in it's place. I then went home with the offending item. Picture (1) I gently prised off the cover of the unit. This took about 30 seconds. Picture (2) Gently scraping off the soft sealant over the battery. This took about 2 minutes. Picture (3) I peeled off the tag connector. About 1 minute. Picture (4) Gently prised out the battery removing the underside tag. Again about 1 minute. Picture (5) The battery was a Panasonic BR2450 "Same as CR2450" reading 2.8 volts. Not having one of these to hand I replaced it temporarily with a CR2032 held in place with my fingers. I took it out to the car, and turned the car on. The system fault had disappeared, and was now showing a flat tyre obviously because I was holding the sensor without any air pressure. I have ordered 5 tagged BR2450 batteries at a cost of £3-22 pence. As soon as they arrive one will be soldered back to the OEM tags, and the valve refitted. The other batteries will be kept ready for failures of the other valves. The total cost per wheel with the charges from my tyre dealer for refitting, and balancing (£10) will be £10-65 pence. Plus 5 minutes work at my desk. These pressure units could easily be made with a compartment so that the batteries could be change readily, but I suppose the manufacturers are making to much profit for this to happen. John.

Linas.P I understand and share your frustration when manufacturers choose not to sell the car you'd most want to buy. I've had similar problems with other manufacturers. Watching the US road tests, it looks like the ES350 might appeal a lot more if Lexus could be persuaded to sell it over here. I think the problem is that they see the mid-luxury saloon car market in the UK (and possibly Europe) as far too small to invest in more options. I think they've just chosen the engine that they think will sell the best and has the image they want to present.

I agree with Lee. Autosol. It shifts everything with sufficient elbow grease and the results speak for themselves. You can buy it in Halfords or on Amazon, eBay, et al. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As the others have said, a little oil or grease will do the job. Personally I'd use a little copper or lithium grease. Use them. They look nice.

I have similar caps on my RX. You're correct, it is possible for them to seize. I always use my little finger to smear some oil on the thread and only do them up finger tight. Remember that they are not holding air in, just keeping dust out.

The principles of hybrid driving are the same but the cars are so very different. The 300h is a smaller car in the cabin but a far more comfortable place to be, a lot quieter and the feeling of better quality materials being used in the car. From a spec point of view both the 300h and my Prius which was top of the range were the same spec, the only one difference was the Prius had auto wipers but no auto lights. Fuel economy isn’t much different, less than 5-8 mpg but the way the 300h delivers the power is so much nicer, the e-cvt box is easier to live with. The Prius was aimed at a different market, and that’s apparent when you jump from one to the other, the Prius was well put together and even with 170,000 miles on it there were no squeaks or rattles from the interior. I’m hoping the 300h is the same. If it is I may run this one to about 250,000 miles Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@jawz786 Jay a number of us on here are working on obtaining a space saver wheel, they are available just not in the Uk. As soon as a viable option is available I’ll post up a sticky thread on here. Big Rat

Thanks Lee. There is a paragraph in that article that confirms something I had suspected, but not found any proof of regarding the Toyota/Lexus VVT system. The cold start rattle many have been complaining about is due to a pin failing locking the sprocket to the cam at engine shut down. At start up "after the oil has drained from the VVT sprocket" the sprocket should be locked to the cam by a spring loaded pin stopping any movement. Once the sprocket has filled with oil the oil pressure rises it pushes the pin out of it's locking position and allows camshaft advance. This pin on some GS's is either seized or it's spring is broken or weak not pushing it into the locked position. The result is the start up rattle many of us are getting after the car has stood for a while. Lexus say this is not a problem for the GS450H, and put up with the noise. In the US the GS, but not the GS450H has a recall for this because it can cause the cam retaining bolts to fall into the timing chain. They say it does not happen with the GS450H because of the different starting method, but there has been a report on LOC of this happening. The cure is to replace the timing sprockets involving removing all 4 cams at considerable expense. Alternatively a prelube system that pressurises the system before the engine turns over eliminates the problem. I will shortly as promised give details of building such a system at very low cost. John.

The CT does have an EGR valve, ref; http://australiancar.reviews/2ZR-FXE-engine.php

Except that book might be relevant to somebody... this thread isn't (except of realms of flat earth if that is your thing). edit: I mean it was at first, but then stopped being so when we started discussing what kind of dark matter from parallel universe power rear wheels on FWD cars.

Ordered some PS4 for the front from my lexus dealer. They matched the price from blackcircles and as a bonus they will collect and drop the car off after fitting from work... bonus 😊

this thread....

GDPR should stop that now, and what's that I can see? is it those pigs flying by 😡

I know it is waste of my time, but because I am that sort of the guy who likes arguing for the sake of it (and clearly has too much time to spare).. here we go: 1. before hiring the lab we need to identify and fix issues in your methodology, because otherwise we will get flawed results (due to the flawed methodology). lets see where you gone wrong with your proposed methodology first and why it doesn't make sense: 4 independent rollers are ok, but they should not be electronic or in any way driven or powered, can have brakes for practical reasons (maybe fail safe) - fine. Rollers represents the road surface and the roads are not powered right? We want to recreate realistic conditions and to have possibility to measure it. If rollers are powered, then they does not act as a road - they represent drive train, hence if you power only front rollers it is FWD, only rear rollers on RWD and all rollers on AWD. Because we are not trying to convert FWD car to AWD or RWD, we not going to power the rollers you don't compare it against anything, hence you cannot conclude anything from that, you need "base line" measure, hence we will introduce identical car for comparison. vehicle has to power wheels by it's own engine power, that is because that is how it works in reality. Roads doesn't power our vehicles, engines and drive trains does. Rollers doesn't have suspension, hence cannot squat etc. hence is why rollers cannot power the wheels. Right? Finally, we not going to do braking test as that is completely different from acceleration and we will need different methodology to test it (if you interested we can go troughs that as well). Your claim was - rear wheels assists car during acceleration in pushing motion, so that is only thing we testing. OK? 2. lets create realistic testing steps for our imaginable test: lab with 2 sets of 4 independent rollers measured by sensors (with brakes.. just because). we have 2 sets of rollers and 2 identical FWD vehicles on both we strap both vehicle on the rollers, applying realistic tension equivalent to vehicle weight and average road surface grip - so that wheels can loose traction if if torque gets greater then grip. for baseline we will use 1st vehicle as it is, 2nd one will have solid concrete non-rotating stands, solid on the rollers - not rotating at all. we power both vehicle and accelerate from stand still to predetermined speed or to the maximum speed. we measure the torque generated in the rollers to determine whenever rear wheels assist acceleration in any shape or form or not. 3. the results (my guess): we start accelerating, both vehicles squats a little bit and we get little bit of skipping on the rollers as torque is greater then grip and weight transfer to the rear reducing grip further. front set of rollers starts spinning on both cars rear set of rollers just stays as they are, 1st vehicle because there are no power delivered to them, 2nd because rear wheels are solid concrete stands we measure the torque generated and it is same in both cases: 100% in front wheels, 0% in rears. = conclusion, rear wheels does not assist in front wheel drive car acceleration. > to further improve our baseline we can add and remove many variables e.g. x. we can further prove the point, by mechanically connecting front rollers to the rear rollers on 1st vehicle. The vehicle will generate same torque to the front wheels, but will accelerate slower due to now having to push not only mass of drive train, front wheels, front rollers, but as well connecting shaft, rear rollers and rear wheels. So if anything - rear wheels are just dead weight which require energy to power. They do not assist acceleration at all, but resist acceleration - equivalent to their mass. (we almost created AWD contraption here + 4 rollers, except on AWD we would accelerate quicker as added weight would have been counterbalance by added grip). y. we can now replace rear wheels with very heavy solid lead disks, running same test we will find that FWD car will generate same torque, but will accelerate slower, because heavier wheels will have more weight to resist acceleration. That only proves rear wheel acts as a dead mass and only in fashion of resisting the acceleration, not aiding it in any way. z. we can replace rear suspension, to take it from equation to see if rear suspension has any role. We replace rear springs and any moving parts for solid concrete stands. Basically we bolt rear towers to concrete stands. This does not allow car to squat or move at all. Result more likely to be less skip on front rollers, because solid concrete minimises weight transfer from front to rear and car will accelerate quicker. Meaning that squatting and weight transfer actually doesn't help acceleration, quite opposite it reduces grip in front. Now when you have decent methodology to start with and reasonable baseline to compare it with, you can certainly go and prove or disprove it in the lab. Or we can imagine one:

And even then only during deceleration/braking. The initial argument was that rear wheels will push FWD car during acceleration and not braking. I think this nailed it: If we live on "flat earth" then there is potential for FWD cars "pushing" by the invisible force in rear wheels. @noby76 - that is exactly sorts of idea we discussing here. Imagine explaining for somebody with basic education that "earth is flat" and imagine their face. That is most of our faces when you say that FWD car pushes with rear wheels... it is equivalent to conspiracy theory (and pretty dumb one for that) - do you understand ?

Pagid stuff is fine. OEM iirc for MB.

Just noticed this yesterday..... If you look at the US spec water rads you will see that they supply them with or without the "Tow Package" The Tow package will be an external oil cooler for the gearbox, so it appears that they just fit them as standard here... as I said on the other thread.... "The replacement cooler will cool the gearbox oil to a sufficient degree, the ideal gearbox oil temperature will be around 90c, it can reach 170c+ inside the torque converter when doing grand prix starts or driving up steep hills for a protracted time, or towing a heavy trailer or caravan (Not likely in a 430..!!) Most of the time the gearbox oil will be within spec and no cooling will be needed, Lexus have to respond to all sorts of abusive driving as well as very hot climates so they fit a rad... Is it really needed by "most" drivers in this country...??? probably not... The replacement coolers can be screwed to the bottom of the front aluminum bumper support, this gives them a very large heat sink and they will dissipate the heat just fine. The only downside I can see is that the original system will actually heat up the oil to operating temp quicker in the depths of winter whereas the replacement won't. I think the difference would only be a few miles of driving though..." Sitting in traffic inching forward doesn't heat up the oil much... it's loading that heats the oil...

Carbon Fibre Diffuser.... Check Carbon Fibre Spoiler.... Check Carbon Fibre Duct Panels.... Check Carbon Fibre Front Splitter and Side Skirt Extensions.... In Transit from Sunny California Carbon Fibre Bonnet...... Anybody in the market for a well used human kidney? One careful owner, mainly motorway miles 😖 Can't seem to get rid of this extra frowny face now ---> 😖 Stupid Blackberry!

The batteries can be replaced but it would be a DIY job as they are not designed for maintenance, Lexus will simply replace the complete sensor(s). IIRC they are ~£80 each The tyres will need to be removed and the new sensor will need to be registered to the car's system. There is a thread on the forum detailing the DIY replacement of the battery in the sensor. Battery is cheap less than £5 but requires soldering in place and re-potting to seal it in. The tyre will still need removing and re balancing in all cases.

@NothernDan Glad you like it - that’s shinier than a shiny thing! Have you got a photo showing the whole back of the car? I’d like to see what might have been!

I’m the same as well. Front 36 Rear 35 Good ride,great economy and not so harsh ride. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had a little play this morning... fitted the separate gearbox oil cooler to eliminate the chance of the dreaded cooler failure wrecking the gearbox, as I've said elsewhere this is the preventative measure I am happy with, there are several ways to preempt this problem and deal with it, whichever way you chose is the best way for you... It's a simple process... remove this panel, there are about 6,534 10mm fixings.... You can then see this at the bottom of the rad the two pipes coming out are from the internal cooler They go into two metal pipes and are held on with those constant torque clips, remove the pipes from the metal pipes, cut them short, shove a bolt in the shortened pipe and secure with a jubilee clip, this ensures that should the rad fail internally then you won't lose coolant through the oil cooler... I forgot to take pictures of the next bit so adapted this one, I drilled four holes in the panel below the aluminium crash bar, two for the pipes (Red)and two outside ones (Yellow) for the purpose of fixing the rad. The pipe holes line up directly with the strengthening ribs... Then dressed up the rad with the hose tails, went under the bonnet, plenty of room to get the rad in position, I used a piece of wood to wedge it in position then used these self drilling and tapping screws, they are designed for roofing sheets but are handy for loads of things... Fixed the cooler in place with four of them using a 10mm socket on a 1/4 drive extension bar in a cordless drill... Cooler now fitted very solid and in good airflow under the front number plate.. Then just a case of cutting the pipes to length and fixing them on, then replacing the undertray. The old cooler only had about a quarter of a cupful of oil in it and as I plan to change the gearbox fluid soon I didn't bother topping it up... Job done... I then sorted out the electrical socket for the tow bar, the old one was hanging below the bar and got broken when I reversed out of our drive and up the neighbour opposites drive, there was a van in the way to stop me turning up the road as I usually do, this meant the front was going uphill as the rear was going down hill.. a nasty scrape and the socket was toast... it looked awful anyway.. Here it is before showing the extra reversing LED's I removed earlier... I bought a black one and a stainless steel plate to secure it, the type that sits behind a normal tow hook, as mine is a removable one I cut down and bent the bracket to fit the socket flush with the bottom of the tow bar, i had to remove a semicircle of the bumper edge to get it in, I have mounted it sideways as this meant I didn't have to remove any more bumper as it would start to show... That looks better if I do say so myself..!! I'll probably paint the stainless bracket but I didn't take any paint to the garage.... It's getting closer to where I want it...... Went to visit the IS250 we have just bought for my good lady. It is in the paintshop, ready for primer, it's having a full front end repaint and the rear bumper, it will then be mint body wise... The bonnet looked like it had been cleaned with a brillo pad and acid, the bumper and front wings had a few stone chips and the rear bumper had a scuff on one corner and a ding in the middle.... (Don't people use the PDC...!!) It's difficult to photograph but it looks awful in the flesh ( We got a lot of money off because of this ) You can see it's a different colour, the headlights are very faded as well, I polished them before it went in, came up like new.... It has to look worse before it gets better.... The back half of the front wings will be flatted with very fine grade paper and the area will be used to blend the new colour into the original, this should make the repaint virtually imperceptible... The bumper had a lot of stone chips.... Old wheely bin makes a great bumper stand...!!! Should be finished Wednesday....

Could the new ES be the perfect taxi? not being sarcastic here but reliability plus 4 cyl hybrid plus massive room in the back plus comfort... depends a bit on the purchaseprice but it will transport its cutomers in style!

Well more smiles in that yesterday I drove up to leeds for a nice bbq at the wife's youngest daughters (she's called me dad for over a decade). I thought I'd stick to the speed limits which I did. Came off a junction earlier as the M62 became a car park. Got to my daughter's and looked at my trip meter. Wow I thought. 38.8mpg. Now to me that's impressive for such a car. Well chuffed. Spoke with a main man at Lexus Leeds and stated I was disappointed in how the car wasn't given a 40k service at 36k miles whilst the dealer chain had it in the midlands. I said that Leeds should do the 40k service and at a heavily discounted price. It was agreed. So in a few weeks when my car hits 40k it'll have a proper 40k service. I will pay upto half for it. Loving my car but this is my worst car for parking next to the kerb. Blimey I drive a truck for a living and can park that perfectly but my RX? Sheesh I'm ruddy rubbish lol.

I am going to generalise here, what I am going to say is generally, but not always true RWD Advantages: Vehicle architecture allows 50/50 weight distribution, with engine mass within the axles. Engine can sit lower in vehicle reducing centre of mass. Better work load split, front wheels steer, rear wheels drive. Weight transfer during acceleration pushes wheels into ground, increasing friction. Disadvantages, Driven wheels push car straight during cornering (oversteer) Increased cost and weight increased package on constraints. FWD advantages: Reduced Cost and packaging. Reduced overall weight. Acceleration during cornering is in the direction you want to travel (assuming you don't get understeer). Disadvanatages: Poor weight distribution due to engine sitting on top of front axle to avoid need for a drive shaft (although this is why FWD is better in snow). torque steer. Drive train elements affect steering 'feel'. Lift off wheel spin, especially on FWD car's with relatively good weight distribution. generally a higher centre of mass from the engine. The Key however is equal and even weight distribution. Equal weighting balances the work load during corning, makes the car more stable during braking. have a look at engineering explained on you tube, he has a good way of explaining things.

Noby76, I'd love to know how a 15Kg wheel, directly linked and held to solid chassis with the moment of inertia within the driving diameter could provide any push on a vehicle? There are only 2 ways this could happen, the moment of inertia is outside of the driving diameter (google / you tube how a flywheel works), Or the the wheel is spinning faster than the car is going, as this can't happen as the wheel is mechanically linked to the car and fictionally held to the ground so the only possible way would be with a kinetic energy storage flywheel and clutch system (which I am sure Volvo have actually designed for rear axle mounting). Any 'Push' from interia without a flywheel would only be giving during speed reduction, and even then on a car with say 30Kg of rotating mass vs 1600kg total mass would be insignificant. I really hope this makes sense. Ps, I'm a mechanical engineer, and have worked in Aerospace and automotive design engineering my entire career.

All cars will squat under acceleration. Even AWD ones will do it. The fact that they do is irrelevant though. It doesn't change the fact that it (squatting) doesn't push a FWD car forwards. If anything it hinders performance since it's taking potential grip and traction away from the driven wheels.

2.3 bar at the front, 2.2 at the rear as listed. I’ve got the same model and tyre wear is pretty even after 15k miles so it seems about right.

Have to say I feel exactly the same. Its bad enough having your pride & joy taken in the first place. Wouldn’t want the added issues of having a car on record as being stolen from a resale & devaluation perspective. Still if you do want it recovered it’s certainly good value in comparison with the usual alternatives. A friend suggested something potentially even cheaper if you happen to have an old iPhone. Buy a pay as u go SIM card & use find the iPhone App - just need to hide it under a seat & conceal the power supply.

I think it's safe to say, that there are some of us that will appreciate and look for a rwd car and some that don't care or realise. I remember reading something years ago that the majority of BMW 1 series didn't know their cars were RWD. Back to the more interesting topic, 3rd order rotational inertial memory, or 'rotopathy'. Shortly after the Korean war, the Communist North realised much like the 'memory' effect of water for medicine used in homeopathy, certain steel alloy combinations exhibited the same characteristics, but only when spun, basically they had a short term memory to revert to the pervious level of homoeostasis. Back in the 70's a communist sympathiser by the name Tom Ogle, in colusion with the North successfully implemented the new technology in the oglemobile (please Google this, I'm not making it up), an old American Galxyee car and achieved over 100mpg. To cover his tracks, he successfully convinced the leading scientists at the time that this was done by pre heating the fuel and running the car on vapours,a perfect rouse to protect the technology. Unfortunately, he was executed for his invention (again I ask you to Google this so you know I'm not making it up), by 'big oil'. So why am I an telling you this now? What noby had hit in is this phenomena, although present in all materials, some are more so than others. There is currently a new secret cold war to develop the tech. Unfortunately, the key mineral and knowledge holders are only found in North Korea. Why else do you think trump is talking to a communist dictator, ignoring massive human rights issues. Its not to admire glorious leaders number 7 hair cut I'll tell you that! If you want to know, then please PM me for my anonymous bit coin address so you can invest in tomorrow. http://fuel-efficient-vehicles.org/energy-news/?page_id=787 Ps, I have been drinking today!

And fitted, courtesy of Paul at Toyotatech (Guildford) who continues to provide excellent service. The difference is amazing! I’ve had to recalibrate how much pedal pressure I apply as the brakes are much more effective than previously Really happy , especially as the ongoing MOT advisory re light corrosion to the underbody has now been removed, after new shocks/springs and new brakes front and rear. New MOT, no advisories 😄

Meant to put these pics up a while back ... completely forgot. Must be an age thing! I've found these pouches work really well. You do need to ensure you place the fob within the inner special fabric pocket. If you don't it does not work ... that may be why some have said they found the pouch ineffective. Picture 1. Key in full view to the car as usual Picture 2. Key placed within inner compartment Picture 3. First you see me ... now you don't!